Improved Pannier Latches

seagrass said:
Barocca interesting how we move to a new machine and run into old friends, Kathy is also on this forum as KathyL.

The latches have worked out to be a good option and although I purchased four I only used two of them. I purchased two with locks and two without locks and used the two with locks.

I fitted them following the good instructions on this site and I did not have to disassemble anything although holding the backing plate with one finger while aligning the catch and inserting the pop rivet was quite a balancing act. I got Victor (VC3 on the CX forum) to purchase them from Amazon US and then post them on to me. Not sure if Victor is still happy to help out like this as he was quite sick for a while and could not easily get out to post things.

The mistake I made was that I used stainless steel pop rivets (so they would not corode) BUT they applied far more pressure to the pannier lid and case which has resulted in cracks in the lids and cases. My NT700 is now patiently sitting in the garage under a motorcycle cover waiting for me to pull the panniers apart and fix the damage.

I purchased a 2013 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom with ABS earlier this year and I am enjoying riding that at the moment so I am in no hurry to fix the NT700.

I have recently been working on my CX500 Euro replacing Fork seals and bushes, rebuilding the front brake calipers and improving the mounting brackets for the aftermarket front fairing.

Seagrass
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I've ordered the locking ones from amazon 2 for me and 2 for wifey (about $80 delivered). Out of interest, how will you repair the damage caused by the SS rivets?
 
seagrass said:
Barocca interesting how we move to a new machine and run into old friends, Kathy is also on this forum as KathyL.

The latches have worked out to be a good option and although I purchased four I only used two of them. I purchased two with locks and two without locks and used the two with locks.

I fitted them following the good instructions on this site and I did not have to disassemble anything although holding the backing plate with one finger while aligning the catch and inserting the pop rivet was quite a balancing act. I got Victor (VC3 on the CX forum) to purchase them from Amazon US and then post them on to me. Not sure if Victor is still happy to help out like this as he was quite sick for a while and could not easily get out to post things.

The mistake I made was that I used stainless steel pop rivets (so they would not corode) BUT they applied far more pressure to the pannier lid and case which has resulted in cracks in the lids and cases. My NT700 is now patiently sitting in the garage under a motorcycle cover waiting for me to pull the panniers apart and fix the damage.

I purchased a 2013 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom with ABS earlier this year and I am enjoying riding that at the moment so I am in no hurry to fix the NT700.

I have recently been working on my CX500 Euro replacing Fork seals and bushes, rebuilding the front brake calipers and improving the mounting brackets for the aftermarket front fairing.

Seagrass
Click to expand...
Hi Seagrass, not sure whether you saw my short note. I'm interested to hear how you would repair the cracks in the panniers where you tried to fit the stainless rivets. Are you now using ally rivets?
 
You might repair the cracks with backing plates on both sides of the plastic riveted together. I did that on the flat bottom portion of pannier that developed a crack.
Also can use screws and nuts to repair or install if there is room. That way you can control the force to the plastic better than a rivet.

Arknt
 
I havent fixed my panniers yet, but I think that aluminum pop rivets would be much more forgiving than stainless steel. A thin metal backing plate will help prevent damage. In lieu of a metal backing plate, a suitable fender washer would work OK too.

Mike
 
Barocca said:
Hi Seagrass, not sure whether you saw my short note. I'm interested to hear how you would repair the cracks in the panniers where you tried to fit the stainless rivets. Are you now using ally rivets?
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Sorry I did see your post and as I have not yet done the repairs I did not answer.

My intention is to use a heated staple gun and install a staple beyond the crack and then use something (maybe araldite or JB Weld) to seal the inside and make it waterproof.

The cracks in the plastic are so fine that if done carefully I suspect you will not be able to even see them on the outside once the repair is done.

Seagrass
 
seagrass said:
Sorry I did see your post and as I have not yet done the repairs I did not answer.

My intention is to use a heated staple gun and install a staple beyond the crack and then use something (maybe araldite or JB Weld) to seal the inside and make it waterproof.

The cracks in the plastic are so fine that if done carefully I suspect you will not be able to even see them on the outside once the repair is done.

Seagrass
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Thanks for the update
 
1Q) do you disable the OEM cable lock after fitting the new Locks? if yes, how ....
 
so, as peeps may have guessed.. i too lost a latch :)

So this surgery is on the cards...

I know what latch to order and what rivets ...

can some one point me to a ok quality riveting tool... as most probably I am going to use it only for this job ... amazon link prefer ...

eg. is this tool and rivet combo fine? https://a.co/d/ai8yBrU
 
That rivet gun looks OK to me. I like the style where the business end has a "plunger" extended instead of being flat. Sometimes it helps in tight spots. That gun has that.

Arknt
 
Hi Seagrass, sorry to be a pest. I've decided to install the latches and found that I have cracks in the cases that need fixing before the latches are fitted. Did you have success with your proposed approach to crack repair? I don't have a hot staple gun, but will buy one if that's what's needed to get the job done. I am, however, unsure whether the tool can be used on such thin plastic. Your advice appreciated.
 
Barocca said:
Hi Seagrass, sorry to be a pest. I've decided to install the latches and found that I have cracks in the cases that need fixing before the latches are fitted. Did you have success with your proposed approach to crack repair? I don't have a hot staple gun, but will buy one if that's what's needed to get the job done. I am, however, unsure whether the tool can be used on such thin plastic. Your advice appreciated.
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Barocca I have still not done the repair so I am not able to give you any more information. It is the next thing on my “todo” list once I get room in my garage.

Seagrass
 
Barocca said:
Hi Seagrass, sorry to be a pest. I've decided to install the latches and found that I have cracks in the cases that need fixing before the latches are fitted. Did you have success with your proposed approach to crack repair? I don't have a hot staple gun, but will buy one if that's what's needed to get the job done. I am, however, unsure whether the tool can be used on such thin plastic. Your advice appreciated.
Click to expand...

would fiberglass type repair work? I have seen so many videos of people repairing car bumpers and they look like new... in case of panniers , the fiberglass sheets will be internal , so no finishing needed....

Q is will fiberglass and the resin stick to plastic....

thoughts....

note, I have no experience with plastic repair or fiber glass, just throwing a suggestion in the mix...
 
ARKNT said:
Also can use screws and nuts to repair or install if there is room. That way you can control the force to the plastic better than a rivet.

Arknt
Click to expand...

That is definitely the approach I would take if I were to do this install. Go get some stainless machine screws and nuts. A bit of blue thread locker on the threads. I'm not against pop rivets, but I would only use them when the material being sandwiched is sheet metal.
 
"...A bit of blue thread locker on the threads...NewTo700V"

Much better to buy self-locking (Nylock-type) nuts than using a liquid thread locker. :)
 
Using a thread locker will melt the plastic on the NT700 if there is any spillage.

Several forum members found this out the hard way.

Seagrass
 
NewTo700V said:
That is definitely the approach I would take if I were to do this install. Go get some stainless machine screws and nuts. A bit of blue thread locker on the threads. I'm not against pop rivets, but I would only use them when the material being sandwiched is sheet metal.
Click to expand...
If using pop rivets, I would recommend using aluminum rivets. They are much more ductile than stainless and will apply less clamping force. The other critical issue with pop rivets is to make sure you have the correct grip range for your job. Measure the thicknesses of all the items being riveted. The sum of the thicknesses will help you selected the proper rivet.

Mike
 
I would venture a guess that over 90% of the pop rivets available at hardware & big box stores are the aluminum type. The steel type are often rare and I've only seen them in the 1/8" size.

I can tell right away when using steel rivets because the squeezing force required to break the center pin is much, much greater.
 
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