Improved Pannier Latches

[1960VTWIN]

After several go-arounds with many other members regarding the external latches that I choose to install on my bike. I decided to replace them with a sleeker and motorcycle in appearance latches.

I settled on some latches made by OWACH Industrial Hardware available on Amazon, OWACH - CL-307-2L. The locks on these have 3 tumbler plates in the insert and the provided key fits loosely. Security is better than the ones that these replaced.

Here are several pictures of one of these that I installed last night.

View attachment 13346, View attachment 13347, View attachment 13348, View attachment 13349

These were installed using 1/8" Pop Revits with a 1/16" thick backing plate for rigidity.

I hope that these are more to everyone's liking. I got ripped on the last one that I used.

Let me know what you all think.

I’m very impressed! I have a recently purchased 2010 NT700VA that has failing latches and would like to add these to my bike. I don’t have any previous experience with metal fabrication and I would like to know how you made the backer plates. Thanks in advance!

 

[Brillot2000]

I’m very impressed! I have a recently purchased 2010 NT700VA that has failing latches and would like to add these to my bike. I don’t have any previous experience with metal fabrication and I would like to know how you made the backer plates. Thanks in advance!

For me, the backing plates were scraps from other projects I had lying around the shop.

You should be able to buy some 1/16" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store. If you can find any 1" wide would be perfect for this purpose. You can cut it using a variety of methods such as a hacksaw or various types of shears.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

[1960VTWIN]

For me, the backing plates were scraps from other projects I had lying around the shop.

You should be able to buy some 1/16" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store. If you can find any 1" wide would be perfect for this purpose. You can cut it using a variety of methods such as a hacksaw or various types of shears.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks much!

 

[Robert]

Drill the holes in the Pannier case first. Then place the aluminum plate behind the case through the space above the latch mechanism. Line up the plate to the holes and mark the holes. Take out the plate to see where the holes markings are at. You may have to do this several times to get the plate close to the center. Then drill one hole, place a rivet, and draw it up enough to keep the plate from falling. Drill the second hole and insert the rivet and draw tight until it pops. Then go draw up the first rivet until it pops.

You always fully remove the pannier cases from the bike to this operation. I am just saying...

I did not have to remove anything. The string/bead trick worked perfectly to get the backing plate into position. I also used pieces of rubber gasket material between the aluminum plate and the plastic. It feels extremely solid.

 

[1960VTWIN]

For me, the backing plates were scraps from other projects I had lying around the shop.

You should be able to buy some 1/16" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store. If you can find any 1" wide would be perfect for this purpose. You can cut it using a variety of methods such as a hacksaw or various types of shears.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Hi again, I have experienced a reluctance to complete the motorcycle safety course l had signed up for. Two things affected this, a general feeling of foreboding after a long lapse of not riding and the second thing is a relative was really scared for my safety. It’s mainly that my last bike l sold in 1984 and now there is a lot more traffic and of course drivers that are distracted with cell phones. I am determined to keep the bike and work on it over the winter and learn how to take care of all the maintenance as well as install the improved pannier latches like you have done. I will continue my dream to ride again but will be taking some time to decide when to proceed with the classes. Okay a couple questions: I understand the process of installing the backing plate on the back side of the pannier covers. What l wondered is if you installed a backing plate behind the smaller catch mechanism the latch engages with? Also l have a really simple rivet-tool. Is there any need for a fancier tool or a certain type of pop rivet, or is any 1/8” rivet adequate. Thanks in advance for your time!

 

[mikesim]

Hi again, I have experienced a reluctance to complete the motorcycle safety course l had signed up for. Two things affected this, a general feeling of foreboding after a long lapse of not riding and the second thing is a relative was really scared for my safety. It’s mainly that my last bike l sold in 1984 and now there is a lot more traffic and of course drivers that are distracted with cell phones. I am determined to keep the bike and work on it over the winter and learn how to take care of all the maintenance as well as install the improved pannier latches like you have done. I will continue my dream to ride again but will be taking some time to decide when to proceed with the classes. Okay a couple questions: I understand the process of installing the backing plate on the back side of the pannier covers. What l wondered is if you installed a backing plate behind the smaller catch mechanism the latch engages with? Also l have a really simple rivet-tool. Is there any need for a fancier tool or a certain type of pop rivet, or is any 1/8” rivet adequate. Thanks in advance for your time!

Backing plates should be used to reinforce the plastic for both the latch and the catch. Not just any old pop rivet will do. Stainless steel rivet material is probably best for this application as it resists corrosion. Pop rivets are designed to grip certain material thicknesses, this is known as the "grip range". Make sure that the rivet you intend to use has an adequate grip range for the sum of the thicknesses of the material(s) you wish to join. Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[Warren]

Others will give you a lot of good advice but all I have to offer is that if your head is not in the right place than don't get in the game. It's telling you something so listen to it.

 

[1960VTWIN]

Backing plates should be used to reinforce the plastic for both the latch and the catch. Not just any old pop rivet will do. Stainless steel rivet material is probably best for this application as it resists corrosion. Pop rivets are designed to grip certain material thicknesses, this is known as the "grip range". Make sure that the rivet you intend to use has an adequate grip range for the sum of the thicknesses of the material(s) you wish to join. Hope this helps!

Mike

Thanks very much, just what I needed!

 

[Brillot2000]

Backing plates should be used to reinforce the plastic for both the latch and the catch. Not just any old pop rivet will do. Stainless steel rivet material is probably best for this application as it resists corrosion. Pop rivets are designed to grip certain material thicknesses, this is known as the "grip range". Make sure that the rivet you intend to use has an adequate grip range for the sum of the thicknesses of the material(s) you wish to join. Hope this helps!

Mike

Might I added that I used "Countersink Head" or referred to as "Flush Mount" rivets as they seat the best with the latch parts holes.

18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets Flush-Mount, 1/8" Diameter, for 0.188"-0.25" Material Thickness - Mcmaster-Carr

 

[1960VTWIN]

Might I added that I used "Countersink Head" or referred to as "Flush Mount" rivets as they seat the best with the latch parts holes.

18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets Flush-Mount, 1/8" Diameter, for 0.188"-0.25" Material Thickness - Mcmaster-Carr

View attachment 18385

Might I added that I used "Countersink Head" or referred to as "Flush Mount" rivets as they seat the best with the latch parts holes.

18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets Flush-Mount, 1/8" Diameter, for 0.188"-0.25" Material Thickness - Mcmaster-Carr

View attachment 18385

Great stuff, I appreciate the parts list and diagrams and I have saved all of this. Thanks very much, I appreciate your time and with all this information l feel confident to make this happen.

 

[1960VTWIN]

Hi again, I have experienced a reluctance to complete the motorcycle safety course l had signed up for. Two things affected this, a general feeling of foreboding after a long lapse of not riding and the second thing is a relative was really scared for my safety. It’s mainly that my last bike l sold in 1984 and now there is a lot more traffic and of course drivers that are distracted with cell phones. I am determined to keep the bike and work on it over the winter and learn how to take care of all the maintenance as well as install the improved pannier latches like you have done. I will continue my dream to ride again but will be taking some time to decide when to proceed with the classes. Okay a couple questions: I understand the process of installing the backing plate on the back side of the pannier covers. What l wondered is if you installed a backing plate behind the smaller catch mechanism the latch engages with? Also l have a really simple rivet-tool. Is there any need for a fancier tool or a certain type of pop rivet, or is any 1/8” rivet adequate. Thanks in advance for your time!

For me, the backing plates were scraps from other projects I had lying around the shop.

You should be able to buy some 1/16" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store. If you can find any 1" wide would be perfect for this purpose. You can cut it using a variety of methods such as a hacksaw or various types of shears.

Let me know if you have any further questions.
[

 

[1960VTWIN]

When you say to drill holes in the pannier case first: “(Drill the holes in the Pannier case first. Then place the aluminum plate behind the case through the space above the latch mechanism. Line up the plate to the holes and mark the holes.)”

Are you referring to the black luggage case section that the lids cover?
And, do you remove the black luggage case section for this process? I wasn’t sure if you were referring to the lids?
Are you using two or four rivets on the latches? I am thinking that I could use the latch and the catch as a template to mark the hole positions onto the backing plates, then drill the holes in the backing plates and use them as templates to mark the hole locations onto the pannier covers and onto the black luggage case sections. What do you think? I was having a difficult time seeing how you could place the backing plate under the black luggage case sections. With the seat removed it’s still very awkward if not nearly impossible to do this. I read someone’s comment that they used beads tied onto string for this, but didn’t locate the explanation of this in your thread. One other thing I was wondering, it’s not perfectly level where the pannier covers meet the black luggage case section. Thanks again for your advice. I apologize it’s a lot of questions.

My latches were delivered today and I have done a little tinkering and thinking and testing. I purchased the four 1/16” (1” x 2-1/2”) aluminum backing plates at a sheet metal company today. When l test fitted the backing plate it is about 1/8” or so wider then the edge of the pannier cover, but it seems like that won’t present a problem.

 

[Jethrocephus]

Old thread, but maybe this will help someone. I put latches on mine today, got some sheet aluminum at Ace Hardware but only 1/32' or thereabouts.I used double sided tape to attach it to the underside of the inner black piece, used some hemostats to slide it in and then press upward with my fingers. The left side was a little trickier but using the hemostats again to slide the aluminum/tape in there and then using a long flat blade screwdriver to press upward and fasten the double sided tape onto the inner black plastic part of the saddlebags.

Will ride this beast Friday and check my work...

 

[mikesim]

Old thread, but maybe this will help someone. I put latches on mine today, got some sheet aluminum at Ace Hardware but only 1/32' or thereabouts.I used double sided tape to attach it to the underside of the inner black piece, used some hemostats to slide it in and then press upward with my fingers. The left side was a little trickier but using the hemostats again to slide the aluminum/tape in there and then using a long flat blade screwdriver to press upward and fasten the double sided tape onto the inner black plastic part of the saddlebags.

Will ride this beast Friday and check my work...

Double sided tape is a great idea! I presume you used pop rivets to attach the latches?

Mike

 

[Barocca]

Brillot2000 do you happen to have a template for the Owach latches you used?

I have just received my Owach latches (I had to get a friend in the US to order them and send them to me here in Australia) and plan to install them soon and a template would be very handy.

Thanks Seagrass

Hi Seagrass, have appreciated your input in the CX forums. Both my wife and I have NT700s and both have problems with pannier catches and brittle plastic. What has been your experience with the Owach latches? Did you use one or two per pannier? Have you any advice about where to source them from in the US? (I have contacts in US who can on-post them). Also, any advice about fitting the latches (over and above that contained in this post) would be appreciated.

 

[Brillot2000]

Hi Seagrass, have appreciated your input in the CX forums. Both my wife and I have NT700s and both have problems with pannier catches and brittle plastic. What has been your experience with the Owach latches? Did you use one or two per pannier? Have you any advice about where to source them from in the US? (I have contacts in US who can on-post them). Also, any advice about fitting the latches (over and above that contained in this post) would be appreciated.

I think I am going on three years or so with these latches. I only installed one latch per lid, which has been working fine.

The mounting template can be found on post #28. I recommend that you read through the whole thread from there on.

 

[Barocca]

I think I am going on three years or so with these latches. I only installed one latch per lid, which has been working fine.

The mounting template can be found on post #28. I recommend that you read through the whole thread from there on.

Thanks for the very prompt reply. I have already read through the thread but will do so again with greater attention before committing and, eventually, fitting. Do you recollect your supplier details, or maybe just ebay?

 

[Brillot2000]

Thanks for the very prompt reply. I have already read through the thread but will do so again with greater attention before committing and, eventually, fitting. Do you recollect your supplier details, or maybe just ebay?

I got mine from Amazon. Draw Latch, Over-center, With Lock

 

[seagrass]

Hi Seagrass, have appreciated your input in the CX forums. Both my wife and I have NT700s and both have problems with pannier catches and brittle plastic. What has been your experience with the Owach latches? Did you use one or two per pannier? Have you any advice about where to source them from in the US? (I have contacts in US who can on-post them). Also, any advice about fitting the latches (over and above that contained in this post) would be appreciated.

Barocca interesting how we move to a new machine and run into old friends, Kathy is also on this forum as KathyL.

The latches have worked out to be a good option and although I purchased four I only used two of them. I purchased two with locks and two without locks and used the two with locks.

I fitted them following the good instructions on this site and I did not have to disassemble anything although holding the backing plate with one finger while aligning the catch and inserting the pop rivet was quite a balancing act. I got Victor (VC3 on the CX forum) to purchase them from Amazon US and then post them on to me. Not sure if Victor is still happy to help out like this as he was quite sick for a while and could not easily get out to post things.

The mistake I made was that I used stainless steel pop rivets (so they would not corode) BUT they applied far more pressure to the pannier lid and case which has resulted in cracks in the lids and cases. My NT700 is now patiently sitting in the garage under a motorcycle cover waiting for me to pull the panniers apart and fix the damage.

I purchased a 2013 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom with ABS earlier this year and I am enjoying riding that at the moment so I am in no hurry to fix the NT700.

I have recently been working on my CX500 Euro replacing Fork seals and bushes, rebuilding the front brake calipers and improving the mounting brackets for the aftermarket front fairing.

Seagrass

 

[Barocca]

Barocca interesting how we move to a new machine and run into old friends, Kathy is also on this forum as KathyL.

The latches have worked out to be a good option and although I purchased four I only used two of them. I purchased two with locks and two without locks and used the two with locks.

I fitted them following the good instructions on this site and I did not have to disassemble anything although holding the backing plate with one finger while aligning the catch and inserting the pop rivet was quite a balancing act. I got Victor (VC3 on the CX forum) to purchase them from Amazon US and then post them on to me. Not sure if Victor is still happy to help out like this as he was quite sick for a while and could not easily get out to post things.

The mistake I made was that I used stainless steel pop rivets (so they would not corode) BUT they applied far more pressure to the pannier lid and case which has resulted in cracks in the lids and cases. My NT700 is now patiently sitting in the garage under a motorcycle cover waiting for me to pull the panniers apart and fix the damage.

I purchased a 2013 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom with ABS earlier this year and I am enjoying riding that at the moment so I am in no hurry to fix the NT700.

I have recently been working on my CX500 Euro replacing Fork seals and bushes, rebuilding the front brake calipers and improving the mounting brackets for the aftermarket front fairing.

Seagrass

Hi Seagrass, my wife also rides a NT700 (2010), sold her WeeStrom to pay for it (tired of cleaning/adjusting chains).