New owner - 2010 nt700v

Properly cleaned and lubed chain. A down side is you will have to clean off the rear wheel after riding a bit. I put cardboard between wheel and chain and spray and brush, repeat. Dry and lube.
1725838961283.jpeg
 
Coyote Chris said:
I dont understand. Chains and sprokets dont come off with the rear wheel since the stone age???? But yes, with my Yamaha 80, 305, 400s, 650s, Honda 350, Yada yada yada they did. There was also a quickly removable link. (There are quick and easy alignment tools but the VFR there is no way to change the alignment. Loosen pinch bolt, take special spanner wrench and move wheel fore and aft, tighten pinch bolt. )
Certain shaft drives have more maintenance than others. With the FJR, you have to pull the pumpkin or at least an inspection cover and inspect and clean and lube the front U joint splines. They come almost dry from the factory. I hardly ever ride in the rain (jinx) and So I mostly pull the inspection cover and look at the front splines. Maybe force some grease into them.
Again, I am pro shaft but just sayin that chains are no big deal. Just keep them clean and lubed.
Yamaha 650 seca. Shim over bucket so valve check was child's play. Tubless tires and shaft drive. I put on the small vetter fairing. Euro models had an oil cooler.
Click to expand...
I agree. I have been a Honda Shafty guy most of my moto career, but now I have two of my three bikes with chains. No big deal, just lube them at the end of the ride and wipe them down and clean when you change the rear tire, Easy Pezy. On my First V-Strom the chain and sprockets lasted for 46000 miles before I replace it. Three things about a chin drive. 1. Make sure you lube it with a good chain lube. Dupont Chain Wax is what I use. Walmart sells it. 2 when putting the wheel back on make sure chain is aligned correctly .There is an alignment tool sold by Motion Pro for about 20 bucks. and 3, make sure the chain slack is adjusted properly. I leave mine slightly looser than spec. I have never had to readjust the chain between tire changes. and I have been changing tire about every 18 months to two years. And 3.B If you get the chain muddy and wet then clean and lube as soon as you can. If you ride in the rain a lot then the freq. of care goes up.
 
Last edited:
Chucksklrst said:
I agree. I have been a Honda Shafty guy most of my moto career, but now I have two of my three bikes with chains. No big deal, just lube them at the end of the ride and wipe them down and clean when you change the rear tire, Easy Pezy. On my First V-Strom the chain and sprockets lasted for 46000 miles before I replace it. Three things about a chin drive. 1. Make sure you lube it with a good chain lube. Dupont Chain Wax is what I use. Walmart sells it. 2 when putting the wheel back on make sure chain is aligned correctly .There is an aliment tool sold by Motion Pro for about 20 bucks. and 3, make sure the chain slack is adjusted properly. I leave mine slightly looser than spec. I have never had to readjust the chain between tire changes. and I have been changing tire about every 18 months to two years. And 3.B If you get the chain muddy and wet then clean and lube as soon as you can. If you ride in the rain a lot then the freq. of care goes up.
Click to expand...
ITA. I am amazed at chains and sprokets today vs 1976. I do use an alignment tool on the Vstrom but it needs adjustment so seldom. I think just for practice I should document chain and sprocket wear over the years so I need a good vid on how to check that on the bike.
 
I found this handy gizmo online for keeping the wheel and hub clean and tidy when lubing your chain. Made in the UK, it concentrates the chain lube where it belongs, on the chain. I use the DuPont chain lube as well. If you apply it at the end of a ride, it's dry and won't sling off the next day.

Mike
 
Manfred said:
No doubt, chains have improved. They still require more maintenance and complicate rear tire replacements - alignment is still an issue.
Click to expand...

Not on a bike with a single-sided swingarm. Removing the rear wheel from a VFR for example is leagues easier than doing so on the NT700. A few lug nuts and it comes right off.

There is no alignment adjustment as axle position always stays parallel with countershaft. Only adjustment is distance for chain slack which is handled by spinning the eccentric carrier.
 
NewTo700V said:
Not on a bike with a single-sided swingarm. Removing the rear wheel from a VFR for example is leagues easier than doing so on the NT700. A few lug nuts and it comes right off.

There is no alignment adjustment as axle position always stays parallel with countershaft. Only adjustment is distance for chain slack which is handled by spinning the eccentric carrier.
Click to expand...
That's good to hear! Not surprised the manufacturers have continued to improve some things. I've never had a bike with as much plastic as the nt700v.
 
Got home with the new bike. Takes some getting used to - engine and gear box - but it's a nice handling bike with plenty of power for me.
 
I purchased a Haynes manual as well as downloaded the Honda service manual. Was out looking over the bike and found a paper copy of the owner's manual and canvas bags inside the saddlebags.
 
Spent a few hours yesterday figuring out how yo remove the seat, open the saddlebags, raise the fuel tank. Checked the air filter (looks brand new), ran a wire to power my USB port, and put it all back together except for the right side black plastic cover - need to add a bit of coolant. First time doing this was quite frustrating - but the owner's manual is most helpful. Next time, I won't be so ignorant!
 
holding onto the rear grab bar and front handle bar, get close with stand feet on ground. that curved foot part is to help roll it up and back. so pull up and back on grab bar, while exerting force with foot on the rock'n part of curved foor rest to bring it up. after a few times of repetition, it will be old school
 
Woodaddict said:
holding onto the rear grab bar and front handle bar, get close with stand feet on ground. that curved foot part is to help roll it up and back. so pull up and back on grab bar, while exerting force with foot on the rock'n part of curved foor rest to bring it up. after a few times of repetition, it will be old school
Click to expand...
Been 8 years since I've had a center stand.
 
Manfred said:
Been 8 years since I've had a center stand.
Click to expand...
With a little practice the stand will become easier.
Be glad you have a center stand. My Versys does not come with a factory stand. I miss the stand, esp. since Versys needs the chain lubed from time to time. (there is that chain thing again)

Arknt
 
ARKNT said:
With a little practice the stand will become easier.
Be glad you have a center stand. My Versys does not come with a factory stand. I miss the stand, esp. since Versys needs the chain lubed from time to time. (there is that chain thing again)

Arknt
Click to expand...
The 1987 BMW R80RT I rode a decade, before my 1985 Honda Sabre, had a center stand . Took a while to get the hang of using it. Glad y'all are on this forum.
 
Manfred said:
Been 8 years since I've had a center stand.
Click to expand...
Many bikes are hard to put on stand. The Concours was the worst. I had to roll it onto a beveled 5/8 in board to do it. The whole trick for me at 150 lbs is to get set properly. Be close to the bike. Left leg straight down. Right leg on the centerstand cam. Roll back and put all your weight onto the right leg while pulling back on the bars. The Nt Aint easy.
 
Be very careful opening and closing lids.
To open, Stand close to bike. Put your right knee/leg gently against the lid and put some pressure on it to unload the locking mechanism, gently pop latch and lower lid.
To Close, Align the lid and with gentle pressure, snick it into place.
 
Coyote Chris said:
Be very careful opening and closing lids.
To open, Stand close to bike. Put your right knee/leg gently against the lid and put some pressure on it to unload the locking mechanism, gently pop latch and lower lid.
To Close, Align the lid and with gentle pressure, snick it into place.
Click to expand...
The left side had busted latches when I got the bike. Previous owner had put locking hasps on it. The right side is stock and I've seen exactly what you're talking about.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom