Throttle Position Sensor TPS Part Number

Hi Clement,
I have had MIL 8 issues for over 2 years. My story is well documented in this thread. I replaced the TPS sensor, the MAP sensor, the battery, and the voltage regulator, and even tried different gas because others have had success with one or more of those attempts in the past.

I do believe mine is fixed now and the apparent solution is also the cheapest one I’ve tried so you may consider starting there.

If you will definately install it, I will send you a connector and cable to bypass the TPS wiring in the harness. If it seems to fix your bike then I can be more sure that mine is fixed also.

Mark

(This reply was copied from http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?12031-Introduction)
 
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ToddTool said:
And thanks Dan, I have been overlooking the 10 pin connector.
Mark
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ToddTool said:
If you will definately install it, I will send you a connector and cable to bypass the TPS wiring in the harness. If it seems to fix your bike then I can be more sure that mine is fixed also.
Mark
Click to expand...

Mark, bypassing the wiring harness and 10 pin connector appears to have fixed your TPS problems. Did you ever disconnect and look at the 10 pin connector? I ask because it is still a suspect for having caused my MAP Sensor faults years ago.
 
Dan,

I did start digging for it the last time you mentioned it. I found it but it was buried pretty well on the left side of the bike. I decided to go ahead and bypass it rather than dig it out. However, assuming my problem is solved, the problem is either in the harness or that connector.

What did you find? Did you clean it, adjust the contact insertion force, or replace contacts? Some of these connectors have decent wire seals but are lacking on interfacial seals. If there is moisture or other contaminant in there, I could end up with MAP or other issues in the future if I don’t check it out. I use a Dow Corning High vacuum silicon grease in my connectors. It is water proof and won’t dry out. It will prevent oxidation and keep out contaminants.

So, good call Dan. That may be a better place for Clement to start.

Mark
 
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Glad you got to the bottom of it. Sometimes you have to keep digging till you get there.
Good job.

Brad
 
My update on this issue: NEW THROTTLE BODY installed seems to have solved it. I've not been far on each ride but fully warmed up about 4 times with NO mil light except when key first turned on. I bought one through the internet at South Sound Honda as suggested by someone on the forum, possibly dnktng, to whom I am very grateful. Price was approx $200 less there. Now the NT is running as well as it ever has. I have an opportunity to upgrade to an FJR with more features like a true cruise control and 6th gear which I think will make me happier as I approach old age. Would surely be nice to have the 2018 Gold Wing but I'm not quite that fortunate$$$$. I do appreciate so many suggestions regarding code 8 which have given me hope along the way. It felt a risk to go for the whole 'body' but a local dealer assured me the TPS was bad after connecting their computer and I felt insecure about calibration of a new non-Honda one on the original 'body'.
 
Yes Dan, you're welcome to it! Absolutely! Perhaps it can be made of some value concerning TPS or other throttle body issues. Perhaps check your inbox about this.
 
Hi, I found this topic very useful in dealing with the 8-flash MIL light for TP sensor.

I recently purchased a 2010 with well under 10K on the ODO. The first two days riding around town were uneventful, it wasn't until I was 70 miles out on a longer trip that I got bit of intermittent power hesitation and the MIL light came on. Over the last two weeks the MIL light was very intermittent, short trips were usually fine, but I could count on an instance of power surging at least once or twice per tankful of gas. There were no common conditions among the occurrences, which made me believe it was a connection issue. I had fitted a cheap voltmeter to keep an eye on the bike's charging system, nothing odd there. The light even came on once before firing the engine. Reading ECU codes showed the 8 flash and one flash for MAP sensor. Both of these sensors share the same 5V power leg.

I disconnected the ECU connectors, TP sensor connector, and the mid connector that joins the throttle body subharness to the main. This mid connector is interesting. There's a metal tab welded to the frame that the connector slides and clips to. The fit isn't exactly snug, I imagine frame vibrations are easily transmitted to this connector. I packed in a bit of a conductive anti-oxidant compound to the female connectors on the TP sensor, and the three female connectors on the mid harness that carry the TP wiring to help improve the connections. I left the ECU connectors alone, just plugged them back in. It's been around 600 miles now with no MIL light or power surging, this includes around town and long day trips. Varied speed, back roads, interstate, different ambient temperatures, probably 16 hours of seat time trouble free. I'm a little hesitant to claim I fixed anything, but I don't think it's a coincidence that the TP sensor trouble seems to have vanished after playing around with the connectors.
 
Just to clarify, I didn't observe a one flash MAP code during the troubles. This was stored in ECU memory read by shorting the dummy load connector. I'm not sure exactly when the MAP sensor code occurred. All MIL lights I read on those rides by placing the bike in neutral and kick stand down were just the 8 flash TP sensor code. I wonder if it's possible that those riders who saw 8-flash occurrence improvements with a fresh rectifier was due to a slightly higher charging output than one that got replaced. Regulator-rectifier output can slowly taper off as they age. Maybe having a bit more voltage available is able to overcome the intermittent voltage drops caused at the connectors and keep the sensor in range the ECU expects to see.
 
As the NTs get older, the likelihood of a corroded connector in many places on the bike (not just the F1) is very likely. Whenever I have the airbox and throttle bodies off the engine during valve clearance inspection, I always open up all the reachable connectors, blast them with electrical cleaner, then apply plenty of dielectric grease. :)
 
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Thanks for the info.
It is nice to have it here to help when one of us has an issue.

Brad
 
Hopefully this will be my last update on this. The bike is now at 1,000+ miles with no MIL or a hint of throttle hesitation, including a 9 hour ride today. If others encounter the 8 flash MIL I'd start with the easy stuff before tossing on parts. Double check the bike's charging system condition, it's a good idea to fit a voltmeter on any bike. Unplug all three connectors in the ECU - TP sensor chain. If you don't want to add any sort of compound, simply try unplugging and reseating connectors a few times and go ride. Reseating connectors can scrape away oxidation and get connector contact area back to a clean surface.

If this should pop up again in the future at some point down the road, I'll most likely bypass the mid connector by clipping, splicing, and soldering the three sensor wires. That way there will be only two connectors in the chain, the ECU and TP sensor itself.
 
Well my NT started throwing the 8 flash TPS code and I would experience the momentary surging and stumbling of the engine while riding. I read the first part of this thread and took the airbox off to access the TP sensor thinking I'll just replace it and ran into the shear screws that were unmovable further hindered by the tight quarters of the throttle body still nestled near the frame. F#$%k. So proceeded to read the rest of this thread and find solace that it just may be a connector/ age/corrosion issue. Well I'll try to find said connectors and hit them with contact cleaner, then work the connector in and out and lastly apply some dielectric grease and see if that solves it.

Has anyone tried this as well , where is the mid-connector ? Will I need to remove the throttle body to access it? Hell I might need to remove it just to get to the TPS connector which seems to be buried under other wires and pressed behind the frame rail.
Looking at the wiring diagram the mid-connector to the main harness attaches to the TPS, MAP sensor, CMP and air intake control valve so I gather a little shop time I should be able to find it. I'm sure the relative positioning on the diagram have no real world relation to the lengths involved on the bike to find the mid-connector.
 
With the tank lifted or tipped back and air box removed, you can see all those connectors. Whenever I did a valve clearance check, I disconnected, cleaned and applied di-electric grease to all the connectors that were accessible, whether or not they were causing any problems. A few minutes spent on preventative maintenance does pay dividends!
 
DirtFlier said:
With the tank lifted or tipped back and air box removed, you can see all those connectors. Whenever I did a valve clearance check, I disconnected, cleaned and applied di-electric grease to all the connectors that were accessible, whether or not they were causing any problems. A few minutes spent on preventative maintenance does pay dividends!
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Thanks @DirtFlier

I cleaned up all the connectors I could find. ( though I couldn't find those mid junction blocks. Low and behold ) Cleared the MIL and everything cleared up, no more flashing MIL codes. In particular with the TPS sensor connection did liberal amounts of contact cleaner, plugged / unplugged several times and sprayed with die electric lube. TPS warning is gone. bike running like a champ. went for a 15 mile ride. So far so good.

Thank you to everyone who contribute to and keep this forum going. I've found it to be invaluable to helping to bring my NT to life.

BTW really liking the Delkevic exhaust note and looks as well as the consequent weight loss and snappier throttle response.


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The throttle body sensors are plugged up with a subharness. What I was referring to as the "mid-connector" is the connector that joins the subharness to the bike's main harness. It's a gray plug that is clipped to the inside of the frame tube on a little metal stud. Pull the side panels, and lift the tank. Look in the little space between the left of the airbox and the inside of the frame rail, you'll see it. I should post these here too:

TP.PNGntframe.JPG
 
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