Got's me a 2025 NT1100!!!!

At first glance, it appears to be similar to the current CAN bus sytems which are commonly used in new automotive applications. BMW was the first to use it in motorcycle applications and it wreaked havoc with the aftermarket accessory business at first. AFAIK, BMW is still the sole manufacturer to use a CAN bus system in motorcycles.

Mike
My 2016 Triumph Tiger 800 uses CAN bus wiring. Low vintage wires running all over. Starter, lights, and accessory circuits are 12v. And maybe fuel pump.
 
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Oh for the days of PC800 Pacific Coast with hydraulic lifters. And a upright twin engine? I thought everyone liked a V-twin. And more $$. Are acting like teanagers?

Russ
 
Russ, the Pacific Coast was a V-Twin just like the NT700, not an upright by which I assume you mean a parallel twin.

Mike
 
I picked up mine today at Cache Honda Yamaha, trading in my 2019 Tracer 900GT. I put 55 miles on it on the ride home. First impressions are pretty positive. I rode it mostly in Sport 2 mode, need to try some of the other modes. I'm 6'4" with about a 34" inseam, I may need to lower the footpegs. It looks like Puig makes a bracket to do so, anyone know of any others?


NT1100.jpg
 
I picked up mine today at Cache Honda Yamaha, trading in my 2019 Tracer 900GT. I put 55 miles on it on the ride home. First impressions are pretty positive. I rode it mostly in Sport 2 mode, need to try some of the other modes. I'm 6'4" with about a 34" inseam, I may need to lower the footpegs. It looks like Puig makes a bracket to do so, anyone know of any others?


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Dont ever get on a VFR....you will need a chiropractor! LOL> Would love to here your impressions about riding with that tranny and the vibrations at different speeds. The riding position for me on that bike is perfect as I am 6 ft 1 (shrunk an inch)
 
OK, I read up on can bus
I can see where ECUs can talk with each other...but I still dont understand how you push on a brake peddle and the brake lite comes on.
Each accessory/function still has a switch that detects the operators command, but instead of controlling the accessory directly it sends a signal to the ECU which then commands the requested function. How does this work? The can bus operates at a steady reference DC voltage, for example 5VDC. Each switch is manufactured with a voltage dropping resistor whose resistance value is unique to that switch. When that switch is activated by the operator the 5VDC signal is routed through the voltage dropping resistor resulting in a specified value, for example 4.7VDC this signal is interpreted by the analog/digital converter within the ECU to activate the requested function. Within the ECU is a lookup table that defines the voltages and their intended functions. For example:

If voltage = 4.7VDC then activate brake lamp
If voltage = 4.5VDC then activate horn
If voltage = 3.8VDC then activate left turn signnal
etc....

The CAN bus system simplifies the wiring immensely. If you look at the steering wheel controls on your new Outback you will see dozens of functions that can be controlled from the steering wheel. Using the old system of discrete wiring for each function, these controls would be impossible as the wiring harness would be as big around as your wrist.

This is a simplified explanation, but you get the idea.

Mike
 
Dont ever get on a VFR....you will need a chiropractor! LOL> Would love to here your impressions about riding with that tranny and the vibrations at different speeds. The riding position for me on that bike is perfect as I am 6 ft 1 (shrunk an inch)
If you were used to the NT700 vibs then the 1100 is much the same with a lot more power. More pronounced than my V-twin V-Strom but not obtrusive at lower RPM. Higher RBMs the vibs are not really noticeable and seem to disappear. The exhaust has a nice growl to it at Idle but again not obtrusive. Great balance between pleasant, manly sound and respect for bystanders. Riding in Drive the tranny shifts too soon to higher gears and seems to lug the engine on acceleration. You can manually shift down to solve that or use D-S1 or S2. Shift points then are more in line with real world riding. Riding along at 65 mph in 6 gear and wanting to pass just manually shift down a gear and go. When you let back off the gas again the bike will automatically shift back up again. A learning curve? Yes but it has been fun experimenting with the DCT. Get in to the tight stuff, use full manual mode and shift as necessary or to your liking. No fussing with a clutch handle or foot shifter just a finger input on the shift paddles. My beginner problem is with both my standard tranny bikes and this DCT, switching back and forth between bikes I tend to forget to pull the clutch in on the FJR and on the DCT Honda I am reaching for a clutch which is not there. Get one, you will be pleasantly surprised. Remember the parallel twin is not a V-4 or an inline 4, as they all have their own characteristics.
 
Each accessory/function still has a switch that detects the operators command, but instead of controlling the accessory directly it sends a signal to the ECU which then commands the requested function. How does this work? The can bus operates at a steady reference DC voltage, for example 5VDC. Each switch is manufactured with a voltage dropping resistor whose resistance value is unique to that switch. When that switch is activated by the operator the 5VDC signal is routed through the voltage dropping resistor resulting in a specified value, for example 4.7VDC this signal is interpreted by the analog/digital converter within the ECU to activate the requested function. Within the ECU is a lookup table that defines the voltages and their intended functions. For example:

If voltage = 4.7VDC then activate brake lamp
If voltage = 4.5VDC then activate horn
If voltage = 3.8VDC then activate left turn signnal
etc....

The CAN bus system simplifies the wiring immensely. If you look at the steering wheel controls on your new Outback you will see dozens of functions that can be controlled from the steering wheel. Using the old system of discrete wiring for each function, these controls would be impossible as the wiring harness would be as big around as your wrist.

This is a simplified explanation, but you get the idea.

Mike
Yes , if one looks at the Wire diagrams of the NT1100 switches in the service manual, one will see the resisters in each switch circuit. Mikesim, thank you for the brief explanation of how the switches interface with the CAN bus.
 
Each accessory/function still has a switch that detects the operators command, but instead of controlling the accessory directly it sends a signal to the ECU which then commands the requested function. How does this work? The can bus operates at a steady reference DC voltage, for example 5VDC. Each switch is manufactured with a voltage dropping resistor whose resistance value is unique to that switch. When that switch is activated by the operator the 5VDC signal is routed through the voltage dropping resistor resulting in a specified value, for example 4.7VDC this signal is interpreted by the analog/digital converter within the ECU to activate the requested function. Within the ECU is a lookup table that defines the voltages and their intended functions. For example:

If voltage = 4.7VDC then activate brake lamp
If voltage = 4.5VDC then activate horn
If voltage = 3.8VDC then activate left turn signnal
etc....

The CAN bus system simplifies the wiring immensely. If you look at the steering wheel controls on your new Outback you will see dozens of functions that can be controlled from the steering wheel. Using the old system of discrete wiring for each function, these controls would be impossible as the wiring harness would be as big around as your wrist.

This is a simplified explanation, but you get the idea.

Mike
Wow! Shezam! I had no idea. So you hit the high beam switch and it has a special unique resistor? So the signal on the bus is voltage X and the ecu sends a real 12 volts to the hi beam. It would be very important that connectors be clean. For some reason, Subarus like my wife's 2015 have something called the "clock spring" go bad. ($700) Its function is to take the horn input from the steering wheel which of course moves and move it to the steering column which doesnt. No other switches on the wheel seem to be affected. Thanks Mike. Its amazing that the bus doesnt get confused if you slam on the brakes and hit the horn.
 
If you were used to the NT700 vibs then the 1100 is much the same with a lot more power. More pronounced than my V-twin V-Strom but not obtrusive at lower RPM. Higher RBMs the vibs are not really noticeable and seem to disappear. The exhaust has a nice growl to it at Idle but again not obtrusive. Great balance between pleasant, manly sound and respect for bystanders. Riding in Drive the tranny shifts too soon to higher gears and seems to lug the engine on acceleration. You can manually shift down to solve that or use D-S1 or S2. Shift points then are more in line with real world riding. Riding along at 65 mph in 6 gear and wanting to pass just manually shift down a gear and go. When you let back off the gas again the bike will automatically shift back up again. A learning curve? Yes but it has been fun experimenting with the DCT. Get in to the tight stuff, use full manual mode and shift as necessary or to your liking. No fussing with a clutch handle or foot shifter just a finger input on the shift paddles. My beginner problem is with both my standard tranny bikes and this DCT, switching back and forth between bikes I tend to forget to pull the clutch in on the FJR and on the DCT Honda I am reaching for a clutch which is not there. Get one, you will be pleasantly surprised. Remember the parallel twin is not a V-4 or an inline 4, as they all have their own characteristics.
Thanks for the test! The NT 700 and my exquisit Yamaha 1981 XV920RH Sport touring bike both had low libes for V twins...but that POS BMW 800 GT I test rode twice had two very anoying rpm ranges where the high freq vibs were bad. My crosstrek "Learns" what kind of driver I am but when I mash the peddle to the medal the 8 speed transmission responds instantly and downshifts to take the engine near the redline. The paddle shifters are way cool for slowing the vehicle going down a hill or coming up to a slow right turn, just like downshifting a manual car...and once you accelerate again, the gear numbers switch back to Drive. Or you can manuually put it into paddles only. It would be interesting to ride a NT1100 for sure. Right now, at 76, the VFR and Vstrom are great bikes with new tires....and would take me anywhere....but the FJR is still a nice bike over 2 mph, but I will never say never as far as trading it in....
Hey yamaha, remember when you made an easy to maintain V twin with fully enclosed 620 chain in lithium grease bath and screw adjusters for the valves and tubeless tires? A whole 65 HP and 509 lbs. The seat height was only 30 inches....
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Wow! Shezam! I had no idea. So you hit the high beam switch and it has a special unique resistor? So the signal on the bus is voltage X and the ecu sends a real 12 volts to the hi beam. It would be very important that connectors be clean. For some reason, Subarus like my wife's 2015 have something called the "clock spring" go bad. ($700) Its function is to take the horn input from the steering wheel which of course moves and move it to the steering column which doesnt. No other switches on the wheel seem to be affected. Thanks Mike. Its amazing that the bus doesnt get confused if you slam on the brakes and hit the horn.
The clockspring also has a very important role as it provides power and commands the airbag! The reason that the CAN system won't get confused is that each command is prioritized by the control software. The commands are executed so quickly that you would never detect the prioritization.

Mike
 
Still learning this beast.
An unexpected surprise for mountain roads, Urban mode. The gears hold much longer and downshift sooner, the tamed throttle makes transiting between corners smooth and quick. I find that monster motor fun as heck but too jagged and raw for the tight stuff.
Added foam grip covers, feels like motorcycle now! $9 Amazon.
Added bar risers, huge comfort upgrade - Voigt Moto Technik 20mm (actual 22mm).
Puig windscreen ordered, very hopeful.
Lowered the suspension 7/8” rear, 1/2” front, can easily flatfoot both feet with 30” inseam, still kicking the seat now and then - Soupy’s links.
Have panniers and top box, Need comfort seat and shock.
 
Still learning this beast.
An unexpected surprise for mountain roads, Urban mode. The gears hold much longer on upshifts and downshifts sooner, the tamed throttle makes transiting between corners smooth and quick. I find that monster motor fun as heck but too jagged and raw for the tight stuff.
Added foam grip covers, feels like motorcycle now! $9 Amazon.
Added bar risers, huge comfort upgrade - Voigt Moto Technik 20mm (actual 22mm).
Puig windscreen ordered, very hopeful.
Lowered the suspension 7/8” rear, 1/2” front, can easily flatfoot both feet with 30” inseam, still kicking the seat now and then - Soupy’s links.
Have panniers and top box, Need comfort seat and shock.
How did you gain the slack for the bar risers in the cables.
 
Thanks. Lowering the bike is out of the question for me. Did you undo the wiring from the upper triple clamp? I thin that would give me the extra slack I would need.
No, everything but the parking brake is anchored to the triple, isolated from tension.
Lowering the bike won’t alter your riding triangle, just seat height so ? I’m still using the rear tire to the edge.
 
I’ve made a correction to the thread I linked above. Here it is:

“No editing allowed so I’ll add a correction here.
Raising the forks adds slack to the parking brake cable. The brake line and wiring are unaffected.
The needed slack for the left side wiring is from loosening the cable tie to the left side handlebar.
The needed slack for the brake line, parking cable and right side wiring is from moving the brake/parking brake assembly 15mm inboard.”

So lowering the bike extends just the parking cable. That would be the obstacle if you were not to lower the bike. Cabling and brake line would be ok.
Please pardon my 71yo brain fart:(
 
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