I just bought this bike, low miles but no tread at all on the rear. Shop gave me a price but wanted the wheel removed first. What did I learn? ALOT
Watched a youtube video showing the rear fender as well as the exhaust needed to be removed. I found
The rear fender must come off. There are three screws inside of the pannier each side that need to be removed. See pic . Be gentle as there are tabs and my 2010 let me know how brittle the plastic is after 16 years.
The exhaust does NOT need to be removed, however, you will want to loosen the two mounting screws for better access and remove the caliper bolt. see pic
The bushing going into the wheel sits about 5mm proud. Did'nt seem right. see pic
The drive housing and it's mate do not seat completely together see pic
The fill cap for changing the rear drive oil is a press fit plug, no threads, probably made to replace with a new one at the shop
Many thanks to Frosty for all of his help
Used the torque wrench from the non exhaust side to avoid needing to remove exhaust.
Kicked my butt but I could do it way faster now. Hope this helps
Watched a youtube video showing the rear fender as well as the exhaust needed to be removed. I found
The rear fender must come off. There are three screws inside of the pannier each side that need to be removed. See pic . Be gentle as there are tabs and my 2010 let me know how brittle the plastic is after 16 years.
The exhaust does NOT need to be removed, however, you will want to loosen the two mounting screws for better access and remove the caliper bolt. see pic
The bushing going into the wheel sits about 5mm proud. Did'nt seem right. see pic
The drive housing and it's mate do not seat completely together see pic
The fill cap for changing the rear drive oil is a press fit plug, no threads, probably made to replace with a new one at the shop
Many thanks to Frosty for all of his help
Used the torque wrench from the non exhaust side to avoid needing to remove exhaust.
Kicked my butt but I could do it way faster now. Hope this helps