[How To] Pannier Latch Solution

Got a quick question on this. I have ordered 4 but was curious if anyone had used only one per side and what the results are compared to the two per side? Like many of the threads on here I started collecting the parts based on the conversation and sure enough it happens not long afterwards. Ordered the new clutch cable after reading the threads on needing one after you add the risers, although some went a year before changing, two days before it arrived, my clutch cable broke. I ordered the latches and they came Wednesday, and yesterday I couldn't keep the left lid closed.

The reason I ask, the bike I bought has been dropped on the left side so the second spot to put a latch has been broken and duck taped. I haven't gotten around to ordering the plastic because it's that one piece that includes the inside of the saddlebag. This might be a good excuse to buy the piece now but until it comes, will one latch work?
 
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Comanche only used one. You can tell that if you look at his pictures in the first post on this thread.
 
And, in my opinion, that's all you need. With two, you have to install them within the exact same tolerance so that both are snug when closed.

One caution - be sure there is a snug feeling "snap" when the latch is closed. If there is too much play, the plastic of the lid can flex so much when you hit a bump that the latch will spring open even when locked.
 
I used https://www.plast-aid.com/ to repair the cracked pannier latch with success. The product is easy to work with. I removed the strap so I could position the lid in a level (open) position. I mixed the material in the cup provided and drizzled it around the crack at the latch. The plast-aid mixing ratio is very forgiving. Suggest you play with a couple of mixtures before you drizzle so you can keep it neat.
 
Well, duuuhhhh. I have been planning on getting my external pannier latches installed as soon as I got my bike back from the dealer. Since the front-wheel bearings were toast and had to be ordered, that didn't happen as soon as I thought. They finished (or thought they did) late yesterday. I woke up this morning and it was raining and I piddled around until the rain quit and the alley dried out before going to get the bike. When the service manager went back to get it for me, he was surprised when it didn't start. So was I! Turned out that the battery was deader than a doornail. So, I got to buy a new battery.

When I got home, I went out to install the pannier latches. I have no idea why I hadn't realized that to install the latches, I was going to need to take the inner pannier apart. So, given that I'm leaving for WV in the morning, I decided was going to take more time (for me, at least) than I had. Hopefully, I'll be able to get into both panniers for the next 2 1/2 weeks!
 
No. I think it was the 2nd one I've had. It was a TruGel and sure died suddenly.

Go to my riding report to see what today was like and to the WV rally thread to see my pitiful plea for help. :)
 
Doug, when you installed your Franzens, the pic showed an aluminum strip as a stress relief for the pop rivets in the pannier lid. Was there any stress relief strips used on the back side of the pannier housing where the latch mechanism is pop riveted? If there wasn't then the pannier housing needn't be removed from the bike for the installation, correct?

Mike
 
Mike, I'm guessing that there is a backing plate -- Doug told me that the guy who installed the latches for him removed the inner pannier to install the piece on the inside.
 
Phil Tarman said:
Mike, I'm guessing that there is a backing plate -- Doug told me that the guy who installed the latches for him removed the inner pannier to install the piece on the inside.
Click to expand...

I recently replaced the inner pannier on the right side and I was looking at the old one today. Even off the bike, you would have a dickens of a time fitting a backing plate to the inside of the inner panner where the hasp should go. There is only about 3/8" to 1/2" clearance and my fat fingers won't fit in there. The inner pannier material is much thicker than the pannier lid so if you sized the pop rivet grip range properly it wouldn't put too much stress on the inner pannier..... I think! If there is no need for the backing plate then you could pop rivet the hasp on without removing the inner pannier... piece of cake!

Mike
 
mikesim said:
Doug, when you installed your Franzens, the pic showed an aluminum strip as a stress relief for the pop rivets in the pannier lid. Was there any stress relief strips used on the back side of the pannier housing where the latch mechanism is pop riveted? If there wasn't then the pannier housing needn't be removed from the bike for the installation, correct?

Mike
Click to expand...

As Phil says below, the was a plate installed on the back as well.
 
If access is that difficult could pop rivet back-up washers be used to add some support? They would probably be quite difficult to get there also but just an idea.

Brad
 
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