New member from Vienna, AuSTria (Europe)
- Thread starter ST1100Y
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ST1100Y
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Fixed an elusive oil seepage; bolt a tad too long, mix up after swapping the belly pan...
Will keep an eye on that, will have to reseal the clutch cover if it's occurring again...
Attached bumper strips to the large pannier lids:
looks quite OEM though...
Found that my GF is riding a little too much...
56,000km (35K-miles) and the rear rotor is pretty close to the wear limit; on the shopping/to do list...
Will keep an eye on that, will have to reseal the clutch cover if it's occurring again...
Attached bumper strips to the large pannier lids:
looks quite OEM though...
Found that my GF is riding a little too much...
56,000km (35K-miles) and the rear rotor is pretty close to the wear limit; on the shopping/to do list...
OP
OP
ST1100Y
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OK, time at the hangar...
My GF is riding the wheels off that thing... literally
New tires (BT32), rear rotor, and then some...
BTW: a bike lift is priceless...
The replaced main seal is holding up nicely...
So is the clutch cover... new OEM bold and all is dry again...
Rotor and pads due though...
Ah-ja... 30,000km... check upon every tire change!
All cleaned up, new hub dampers from the shelf (and bushings from my ST1100 stock...)
buttoned up again...
I just love that tire machine... has paid off well...
A little helper to clean the beads...
New valve stems, obligatory at every tire change...
Balancing for a smooth ride...
All cleaned for inspection...
Moly paste...
More of that essential protective paste...
More careful cleaning...
A few dabs of copper slip on the strategic areas...
New front tire went way quicker....
Them dudes designing those non removable panniers, fixed silencer, etc... where definitely graduates of a university...
A normal thinking/working human being could never come up with such nonsense...
I do manage to handle the rear wheel installations without removing the silencer, but it's quite an origami, requiring fancy language and then some...
Yep, been up there, spotted one, thus earned that sticker...
GF is quite happy, bike handles exceptionally well and agile again, squeak of rear brake is gone, slack in drive line reduced hence smoother shifting...
We'll see how well those BT32's will hold up now...
cheers!
My GF is riding the wheels off that thing... literally
New tires (BT32), rear rotor, and then some...
BTW: a bike lift is priceless...
The replaced main seal is holding up nicely...
So is the clutch cover... new OEM bold and all is dry again...
Rotor and pads due though...
Ah-ja... 30,000km... check upon every tire change!
All cleaned up, new hub dampers from the shelf (and bushings from my ST1100 stock...)
buttoned up again...
I just love that tire machine... has paid off well...
A little helper to clean the beads...
New valve stems, obligatory at every tire change...
Balancing for a smooth ride...
All cleaned for inspection...
Moly paste...
More of that essential protective paste...
More careful cleaning...
A few dabs of copper slip on the strategic areas...
New front tire went way quicker....
Them dudes designing those non removable panniers, fixed silencer, etc... where definitely graduates of a university...
A normal thinking/working human being could never come up with such nonsense...
I do manage to handle the rear wheel installations without removing the silencer, but it's quite an origami, requiring fancy language and then some...
Yep, been up there, spotted one, thus earned that sticker...
GF is quite happy, bike handles exceptionally well and agile again, squeak of rear brake is gone, slack in drive line reduced hence smoother shifting...
We'll see how well those BT32's will hold up now...
cheers!
Phil Tarman
Site Supporter
ST1000Y wrote:
Them dudes designing those non removable panniers, fixed silencer, etc... where definitely graduates of a university...
A normal thinking/working human being could never come up with such nonsense...
I do manage to handle the rear wheel installations without removing the silencer, but it's quite an origami, requiring fancy language and then some...
Back in the late '60s, I was the pastor of a church where every man except for 5 worked for Dow Chemical's largest plant in the US. One of them was a man who had graduated from high school, but hadn't gone to college. His starting job had been as what Dow called an operator, but then he got a promotion and became a lab assistant, and Dow figured out that Frank was a pretty smart guy. He started gettng patents and Dow paid him a whoppin' $1.00 for each of those (but they did give him a framed copy of the patent grant which had his name on it.) By the time I got to know him, he had over 60 patents.
He hadn't worked in the lab for too long when he realized that new chemical engineers were not aware of the difference between university lab work and industrial chemical work. His boss figured out that Frank could help these guys get ready to work in the real world. He told me that most of the guys who had only a bachelors degree could transition into that real world in about 3 months; masters degree recipients took 6; folks with their PhDs took at least a year.
Honda must have used bachelors straight out of university!
Them dudes designing those non removable panniers, fixed silencer, etc... where definitely graduates of a university...
A normal thinking/working human being could never come up with such nonsense...
I do manage to handle the rear wheel installations without removing the silencer, but it's quite an origami, requiring fancy language and then some...
Back in the late '60s, I was the pastor of a church where every man except for 5 worked for Dow Chemical's largest plant in the US. One of them was a man who had graduated from high school, but hadn't gone to college. His starting job had been as what Dow called an operator, but then he got a promotion and became a lab assistant, and Dow figured out that Frank was a pretty smart guy. He started gettng patents and Dow paid him a whoppin' $1.00 for each of those (but they did give him a framed copy of the patent grant which had his name on it.) By the time I got to know him, he had over 60 patents.
He hadn't worked in the lab for too long when he realized that new chemical engineers were not aware of the difference between university lab work and industrial chemical work. His boss figured out that Frank could help these guys get ready to work in the real world. He told me that most of the guys who had only a bachelors degree could transition into that real world in about 3 months; masters degree recipients took 6; folks with their PhDs took at least a year.
Honda must have used bachelors straight out of university!
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ST1100Y
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STill: what where they smoking?
On an ST1100 one can remove a rear wheel in under 10 minutes... even on the floor!!
Not to mention the ease of accessing the cams for checking valve clearances on that longitudinal V-4...
Anyway, next project on the NT is the swap of the cowl stay (sub)frame to gain the adjustable windscreen feature...
Screen brackets/sliders and slotted garnish plate have already arrived, delivery of cowl stay is announced for next week...
OP
OP
ST1100Y
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Aaand... some action shots taken by GF... LOL 
You mean like this guy.Nice looking shop! Just the right amount of clutter! Not like some <ahem!> on the forum.....
Mike
You asked for it you got it.....Toyota.
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OP
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ST1100Y
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Still a work in progress... and it's a workplace not a showroom...
Rented the place with a friend (hard to find these days, no one want's hooligans in their neighborhood...
), space is getting an issue...New larger (heavy duty) shelves are in the pipeline...
2x ST1100
2x NT700
1x ST1300
1x NC750X
1x 70ies Kawa
2x 70ies CB500/4
Showoff!You mean like this guy.
View attachment 20000View attachment 20001View attachment 20002View attachment 20003View attachment 20004
Mike
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ST1100Y
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Revived her majesty's NT after almost 3 months in the garage...
Topped off tire inflation with the trusty XIAOMI portable compressor thingie in no time, thanx to the Schrader adapter:
And the NOCO LRP14 lithium held up really well!
Unsure over the HISS being active I had the GB20 booster pack ready, but no need...
Flicking the key, lights came on, wait a few seconds, on the 3rd push the starter "giggled" into life "wepwepwep-vrooom..."
Those lithium BMS do their job in "warming" the cells first under load, before releasing full current...
She's roaming out there, happy...
(battling a cold I still can't be bothered to "unearth" my ST1100 yet...
)
Topped off tire inflation with the trusty XIAOMI portable compressor thingie in no time, thanx to the Schrader adapter:
And the NOCO LRP14 lithium held up really well!
Unsure over the HISS being active I had the GB20 booster pack ready, but no need...
Flicking the key, lights came on, wait a few seconds, on the 3rd push the starter "giggled" into life "wepwepwep-vrooom..."
Those lithium BMS do their job in "warming" the cells first under load, before releasing full current...
She's roaming out there, happy...
(battling a cold I still can't be bothered to "unearth" my ST1100 yet...
)
OP
OP
ST1100Y
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Time flies... GF already put 82,000km/51Kmiles on that thing...
Hangar time...
Engine oil & filter replaced, new brake pads, brake fluid replaced, fork oil replaced, f/drive oil replaced, swapped tires...
Tomorrow we'll dive in for checking valves, t/chain spanners, new valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, air-filter, replacing coolant...
Drive splines & hub dampers look fine, so do the OEM wheel bearings...
Hangar time...
Engine oil & filter replaced, new brake pads, brake fluid replaced, fork oil replaced, f/drive oil replaced, swapped tires...
Tomorrow we'll dive in for checking valves, t/chain spanners, new valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, air-filter, replacing coolant...
Drive splines & hub dampers look fine, so do the OEM wheel bearings...
Randall-in-Mpls
Yearling Deauville owner!
Vehicles are designed for easy assembly, not easy maintenance.STill: what where they smoking?
The longitudinal v-twins on my CX500s and Silverwings have the same advantages.
I briefly considered this after riding a friends ST1300. I'll be interested to see what modifications you need to make.Anyway, next project on the NT is the swap of the cowl stay (sub)frame to gain the adjustable windscreen feature...
Screen brackets/sliders and slotted garnish plate have already arrived, delivery of cowl stay is announced for next week...
Randall-in-Mpls
Yearling Deauville owner!
I haven't seen that much garage floor since I moved in!Nice looking shop! Just the right amount of clutter! Not like some <ahem!> on the forum.....
Mike
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ST1100Y
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Welcome... to big service!
GF was thinking ahead, remembered that removal of tank is required hence filled only 5 liters... smart gal
digging into the guts...
PAIR pipework, a gazillion wiring connectors and the throttle bodies need to come off...
the rear jug provides halfway comfy access...
the forward jug however is a nightmare...
fortunately all clearances were within specs; adjusting the #1 outlets would have required to remove the radiator...
t/chains, spanners and gliders are also still within specs... should last another 15 years
New valve cover gaskets and grommets, not taking any chances... (yep, + the mandatory dabs of black RTV in the corners of the crescent shaped thingies )
since I simply refused to remove the upper fairings, I needed to mutilate the air-guide plates inside...
much better... replacing the coolant was a breeze after that...
10W-30 synth isn't so easily avail here... had to order a can of MOTUL online...
Same brand for ready mix coolant...
BelRay Super DOT 4 brake fluid...
GF claims the engine is more silent now... dunno...
Further are the brakes yet not so venomous, will take a few miles till the pads settle and bite again...
Will roll in again prior our Scotland run to install a set of brand new tires
The ones she's on now were removed prior the Norway tour, still plenty of thread left to make it through the MOT next week...
GF was thinking ahead, remembered that removal of tank is required hence filled only 5 liters... smart gal
digging into the guts...
PAIR pipework, a gazillion wiring connectors and the throttle bodies need to come off...
the rear jug provides halfway comfy access...
the forward jug however is a nightmare...
fortunately all clearances were within specs; adjusting the #1 outlets would have required to remove the radiator...
t/chains, spanners and gliders are also still within specs... should last another 15 years
New valve cover gaskets and grommets, not taking any chances... (yep, + the mandatory dabs of black RTV in the corners of the crescent shaped thingies
)since I simply refused to remove the upper fairings, I needed to mutilate the air-guide plates inside...
much better... replacing the coolant was a breeze after that...
10W-30 synth isn't so easily avail here... had to order a can of MOTUL online...
Same brand for ready mix coolant...
BelRay Super DOT 4 brake fluid...
GF claims the engine is more silent now... dunno...
Further are the brakes yet not so venomous, will take a few miles till the pads settle and bite again...
Will roll in again prior our Scotland run to install a set of brand new tires
The ones she's on now were removed prior the Norway tour, still plenty of thread left to make it through the MOT next week...
Last edited:
OP
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ST1100Y
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Prepping for the Scotland ride another session in the hangar for my GF's NT700VA...
Basically just installing new tires (BT32) and a brief overview...
While removing the rear wheel I found one of the (float) pins on the caliper sub assy had worked itself loose...
(the one opposite to the clip #5 in the schematic
hence a part that's not supposed to come off... )
Mentally already preparing for some TimeSert action I found the threads still intact, so just cleaned them and applied some thread-lock for securing it... will have an eye on it though...
Serviced the caliper while already apart, copper slip in the SS clips, a smear of marine grease on the float pins, operating flawless again...
Brakes are good, wheel bearings are good, applied G-n plus on the splines and marine grease on the wheel bearing seals, a dab of copper slip here and there...
Replaced the (burned) 5W front pos light, while at it precautionary also the license plate illu, notorious for failing...
Being on SENA BT-headsets now I also removed the whole PMR setup and sealed the mounting bores with some RTV...
Swapped the (hard to reach) spark plugs to Iridium types, should last like 100,000km then...
(note to myself: don't lift the fuel tank when it's filled to the brim...)
Tried to figure a way to install dual tone FIAM horns in that NT, found sufficient (whilst hard to reach) space in the front fairing, but had to give up over lack of proper high amp power access (as well as lack of space for sealed heavy duty relay + sealed fuse holder)... didn't like the idea of attaching a lead to the battery terminal over worries the screw there might then work itself loose, leaving her stranded somewhere...
Will look for a single, slim but louder horn that'll fit into the given OEM location...
I further determined which area of her headlight I'll have to tape over for that LHS traffic over there (eliminating our RHS upward kick)
Next will be a pre-flight check of my ST1100Y...
Basically just installing new tires (BT32) and a brief overview...
While removing the rear wheel I found one of the (float) pins on the caliper sub assy had worked itself loose...
(the one opposite to the clip #5 in the schematic
hence a part that's not supposed to come off... )
Mentally already preparing for some TimeSert action I found the threads still intact, so just cleaned them and applied some thread-lock for securing it... will have an eye on it though...
Serviced the caliper while already apart, copper slip in the SS clips, a smear of marine grease on the float pins, operating flawless again...
Brakes are good, wheel bearings are good, applied G-n plus on the splines and marine grease on the wheel bearing seals, a dab of copper slip here and there...
Replaced the (burned) 5W front pos light, while at it precautionary also the license plate illu, notorious for failing...
Being on SENA BT-headsets now I also removed the whole PMR setup and sealed the mounting bores with some RTV...
Swapped the (hard to reach) spark plugs to Iridium types, should last like 100,000km then...
(note to myself: don't lift the fuel tank when it's filled to the brim...
)Tried to figure a way to install dual tone FIAM horns in that NT, found sufficient (whilst hard to reach) space in the front fairing, but had to give up over lack of proper high amp power access (as well as lack of space for sealed heavy duty relay + sealed fuse holder)... didn't like the idea of attaching a lead to the battery terminal over worries the screw there might then work itself loose, leaving her stranded somewhere...
Will look for a single, slim but louder horn that'll fit into the given OEM location...
I further determined which area of her headlight I'll have to tape over for that LHS traffic over there (eliminating our RHS upward kick)
Next will be a pre-flight check of my ST1100Y...
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NoNTnow
Guest
The Nautilus / Stebel air horn comes apart in to two sections allowing for easier mounting. Mount the compressor were you want and just use a long hose to supply the air to the horn section up front. WARNING: It has been several years since I did this so look at one to make sure they still come apart...
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ST1100Y
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Again: such requires a fused, high amp line + control relay for which you won't have an access point on that NT...
(on the ST1100 is a big 55A fuse terminal adjacent to the battery where you can feed your electrical farkels from "mains"; such is missing on the NT700...)