Jump packs.

Coyote Chris

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
2,965
Location
Spokane
Bike
10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
I wonder how many of you carry jump packs? Cars and Bikes. In the state partol, we had to turn in our jumper cables when a trooper jumped a car that blew out every computer in his car, including the two way radios. We got jump packs. Now, you can pay $20-60 for a jump pack that will do the job. But they dont last for ever, like your cell phone battery. And I have some that are going on 7 years old now. I check them with a simple resistive checker and if under a major load, they drop below 9 volts, I consider that marginal. But They would probably still work for a bike. Vehicles are full of complex computers and there is no way a weak battery is gonna run the computers and fuel injection system without a jump. My wife has saved 3 people so far with hers at dog shows.....with mine, Frosty and I were able to proove his truimph battery was toast by the side of the road and just went and got another one. Now I have a car where even the refueling door is controled by a computer. So I am trying out a new jump pack. I think for $50 its pretty cool. It uses a C type USB to charge it up and the plug for the jumper cables has a digital voltmeter on it. Hopefully, it will outlive me. I check and charge them twice a year.....they will power an air compessor or cell phone also. Here it is being charged for the first time with the cables plugged in.
1744859867503.png
 
NOCO GB20 here... (one in each car)


sufficient for our smaller engines over here, kicks 2ltr Diesel or gasoline up to 6 times...
 
NOCO GB20 here... (one in each car)


sufficient for our smaller engines over here, kicks 2ltr Diesel or gasoline up to 6 times...

I have a GB20 in the kit I put together that contains a small air compressor and tire plugs.

I bought it because I wasn't going to be running alongside and pop-starting an 800lb cruiser.
 
I have the same NOCO jump starter and am very pleased with it. You can order a connnection cable to attach to your battery and route the terminal end to an accessible location on your bike. Then if you need a jump you don't have to remove seat or tupperware to access the battery. Just plug 'er in and you are good to go. Also, if your charging system or regulator/rectifier conks out, you can leave the NOCO attached and use it as an emergency power source to limp in to a service location or home. Just bring some duct tape to attach it to your bike.

Mike
 
I have not. I can understand people justifying the need for one... but I just haven't got there. Still have jumper cables in both vehicles but have only used on other people vehicles in the past 20 years maybe 3 times.

Related note... Over the past couple of years I've bought a 40V Ryobi push mower (wouldn't do again), 40V Ryobi weed eater (HUGE improvement, would recommend) and a 40V Ryobi chainsaw (excellent for what I need). I have 2 40V batteries that work in all machines, but I hate that the batteries sit unused for 99% of the year. If Ryobi made a 40V to 12V reducer to use as a jump pack THAT would make sense, but they don't make that attachment. Just hate having batteries everywhere unused and can't justify buying a couple of jump packs for my vehicles when I could buy a new vehicle battery for a few $$$ more if I'm at all concerned about my battery.
 
I have not. I can understand people justifying the need for one... but I just haven't got there. Still have jumper cables in both vehicles but have only used on other people vehicles in the past 20 years maybe 3 times.
These jump packs usually have an additional USB Out. I use mine to charge Tablet and cell phone on the road if 110v not available. Camping comes to mind.
 
So I got a jump back for each car and a smaller jump pac for my bikes. And since I bought them I have not had to use them. Except one time on my daughters old car. I guess it is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
 
Last edited:
I have the same NOCO jump starter and am very pleased with it. You can order a connnection cable to attach to your battery and route the terminal end to an accessible location on your bike. Then if you need a jump you don't have to remove seat or tupperware to access the battery. Just plug 'er in and you are good to go. Also, if your charging system or regulator/rectifier conks out, you can leave the NOCO attached and use it as an emergency power source to limp in to a service location or home. Just bring some duct tape to attach it to your bike.

Mike
I have to have a special lead off of my FJR battery as they didnt put the battery in an easily accessable place. One of the really bad pieces of Japanese engineering I have ever seen.
 
So I got a jump back for each car and a smaller jump pac for my bikes. And since I bought them I have not had to use them. Except one time on my daughters old car. I guess it is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
My wife has used hers more than I have but at home I had to jump her old car 4 times and here and there a lawn tractor. The main thing is you can help out people without fear of destroying your vehicle computers.
 
I have not. I can understand people justifying the need for one... but I just haven't got there. Still have jumper cables in both vehicles but have only used on other people vehicles in the past 20 years maybe 3 times.

Related note... Over the past couple of years I've bought a 40V Ryobi push mower (wouldn't do again), 40V Ryobi weed eater (HUGE improvement, would recommend) and a 40V Ryobi chainsaw (excellent for what I need). I have 2 40V batteries that work in all machines, but I hate that the batteries sit unused for 99% of the year. If Ryobi made a 40V to 12V reducer to use as a jump pack THAT would make sense, but they don't make that attachment. Just hate having batteries everywhere unused and can't justify buying a couple of jump packs for my vehicles when I could buy a new vehicle battery for a few $$$ more if I'm at all concerned about my battery.
1. You can get a plain Jane one for 20 bucks. It will last for 5 years.
2. Never EVER use jumper cables. For these two reasons. One, jump packs have reverse connection protection. Cables do not. You are not gonna like what happens if some wag hooks positive to negative. 2. If someone has a runaway alternator and their car is now dead and they want you to jump start it with cables and it does start..do you really want your computers to experience 18 plus volts????? No you dont. It wasnt cheep for the state patrol to ditch 1,000 jumper cables and buy 1000 jump packs. It wasnt cheep to replace the two way radio ($2,500 20 years ago) and all the vehicle computers on one car even back then.
 
Jump packs dont always work. I drove my Honda Fit to Walmart ti get a few things. When i got back to the car it would not start. I hooked up my jump pack and nothing. I called my son up and he came to give me a jump, still nothing. Fortunately the Walmart auto department had the correct battery and the manager was kind enough to bring it out to the lot and install it for me. I assume my original battery had a cell short out which prevented it from being able to be jumped.
 
Jump packs dont always work. I drove my Honda Fit to Walmart ti get a few things. When i got back to the car it would not start. I hooked up my jump pack and nothing. I called my son up and he came to give me a jump, still nothing. Fortunately the Walmart auto department had the correct battery and the manager was kind enough to bring it out to the lot and install it for me. I assume my original battery had a cell short out which prevented it from being able to be jumped.
Once upon a time I had a 1983 stock goldwing with a vetter windjammer. Road it for 18 years. Every two years, I would hit the starter button and everything went very dark. Happened 3 times. Turns out Yuasa plant in IIRC pennsylvania made alot of bad batteries where the welds between the cells would burn open. If I had a jump pack that was Lith ion, it would have started but once I removed it....nada....and you dont want to run a lith ion battery being charged by a bike system for very long. In the Frosty episode, we were a few miles from the day one motel when his triumph battery went TU. I managed to find one that would sort of fit the battery well in Bozeman and we used that. And yes, a shorted cell is bad but now is very rare. I always carry a two dollar voltmeter.
 
I use a Jump Starter/Tyre Pump combo which is about the same size as just the tyre pump though slightly bigger than my previous tyre pump which gave up after about 7 years. I use the tyre pump nearly every time I ride to check the pressures.

I haven't "used it in anger" yet to jump start anything but the tyre pump works well. I got it off Banggood.com for about $50

POPDEER PD-JA3 5000A 4-in-1 Emergency Jump Starter with Air Compressor (150PSI Tire Inflator) 12V Quick Charge 3.0 Jump Box LCD Display Flashlight Storage Case - Suitable for 10.0L Gas 8.0L Diesel Engines - Black
 
Once upon a time I had a 1983 stock goldwing with a vetter windjammer. Road it for 18 years. Every two years, I would hit the starter button and everything went very dark. Happened 3 times. Turns out Yuasa plant in IIRC pennsylvania made alot of bad batteries where the welds between the cells would burn open. If I had a jump pack that was Lith ion, it would have started but once I removed it....nada....and you dont want to run a lith ion battery being charged by a bike system for very long. In the Frosty episode, we were a few miles from the day one motel when his triumph battery went TU. I managed to find one that would sort of fit the battery well in Bozeman and we used that. And yes, a shorted cell is bad but now is very rare. I always carry a two dollar voltmeter.

Years ago I had a 1983 Honda Gold Wing Interstate with the same bad Yuasa battery, it dropped dead just a couple of blocks away from the Honda dealer.
 
... In the Frosty episode, we were a few miles from the day one motel when his triumph battery went TU. I managed to find one that would sort of fit the battery well in Bozeman and we used that. And yes, a shorted cell is bad but now is very rare. I always carry a two dollar voltmeter.
Yes, I remember it well ... 6/21/2021 ...
It was like I ran out of gas.
Here is my Happy Camper face on the side of I-90, in the middle of MT. It was plenty warm and after 380 miles, a nice long wait. I could see the Motel from the road. AAA could not find anyone to help and the Progressive roadside assistance said the they were working it and would pass it on to the next shift. It was Chris who found a battery that we could McGuyver into working. Subsequently the battery manufacturer and I had a long association and they finally sent me an expensive heavy duty quad battery for my trouble. They said the distributor (mfgr in this case) was responsible for any warranty, etc, but in this case ... :cool:

1745105820343.jpeg
 
Mike, the ones I’ve seen were Yuasas. I don’t know what the one that Frosty had that died was. We will have to wait for Joe or Chris to answer definitely. I’ve had good luck with Yuasa batteries.

I try to replace my batteries preemptively at 5 years, but often forget and they run to 6 or 7 without issue. I remove them from my bike in winter months and store them in my heated shop. I try to remember to charge them once a month but they only get charged about every 2 months. The only dead battery episode I ever had was when I left my lights on.
 
A well maintained battery on a bike lasts quite a long time. Mine stay in the bikes year round but they stay in the garage which isn't heated but attached and seldom drops below 35°. Then if they spend anytime not being ridden, they are on battery tenders. The only bikes that I have ever had a lot of battery probs with were the Honda 305 Superhawks/Scramblers from the sixties. They had 180° cranks and vibrated horribly. A frequently ridden 305 would go thru a battery each season. When you pulled the battery the bottom inch of the plates were visibly buried in sulfation from the vibration. The 305 Dreams avoid this vibration problem with a 360° crank.

Mike
 
Back
Top Bottom