Rear Brake Caliper Bolt

Manfred

Manfred

Stuart Brogden
Joined
Sep 6, 2024
Messages
181
Location
La Vernia, TX
Bike
2010 Honda nt700v
I started the process of changing my rear tire this afternoon. Followed the process for doing so without removing muffler that I found here. I am unable to get the caliper bolt loose. I've bent a wrench pushing on it. Put penetrating oil on it. Can't budge it. Any advice?
 
Found a long 14 mm wrench at a local auto parts store. Slid a piece of pipe over the 13 mm end and was able to break that stubborn bolt loose.
 
Well, this bolt coming loose could lead to sudden uncontrolled lockup of the rear wheel (possible lethal), hence needs to be securely set with 89Nm (same as rear axle nut)...

I got me one of those little helpers:

universal-spanner-wrench-extension-extender-power-bar-1-2in-drive-340mm-long~5056663619153_01c...jpg
 
Last edited:
OK. Related question - how does the caliper rotate back out of the way? I have it loose and I can lift it up a bit and back a bit, but the pads do not clear the disc and the tops interfere with the wheel, preventing me from moving it out of the way so the wheel can moved off the hub.
 
You guys not familiar with the old double-wrench trick? That's how I always got that bolt loose. Grab another wrench of similar size to the one you're attempting to turn a fastener with. Lock the open end jaws of the original wrench into the box end of the 2nd wrench you grabbed. This doubles your effective lever arm.

Just Google or YouTubes "double-wrench method" if this sounds confusing.
 
Manfred said:
OK. Related question - how does the caliper rotate back out of the way? I have it loose and I can lift it up a bit and back a bit, but the pads do not clear the disc and the tops interfere with the wheel, preventing me from moving it out of the way so the wheel can moved off the hub.
Click to expand...
you need to take out axle bolt, it will move off the rotor by fiddleling with it. loosen that bolt that was real tight, loosen rear muffler bolt, pull out muffler while pushing that bolt back to hit muffler and let the brake casting be free, then it will move out of there
 
Woodaddict said:
you need to take out axle bolt, it will move off the rotor by fiddleling with it. loosen that bolt that was real tight, loosen rear muffler bolt, pull out muffler while pushing that bolt back to hit muffler and let the brake casting be free, then it will move out of there
Click to expand...
I did all that. Found a video that was helpful. was able to get the caliper moved and wheel out - deflated the tire for a little more clearance.
 
NewTo700V said:
You guys not familiar with the old double-wrench trick? That's how I always got that bolt loose. Grab another wrench of similar size to the one you're attempting to turn a fastener with. Lock the open end jaws of the original wrench into the box end of the 2nd wrench you grabbed.
Click to expand...
Yeah... about that...

IMG_20210403_181744.jpg

I'd recommend wearing good leather gloves & safety googles while attempting such a stunt... the splinters can reach quite a velocity while sacrificing a tool to the spirit of Honda...

Hence the nifty tool pictured above...
 
Manfred said:
Found a video that was helpful. was able to get the caliper moved and wheel out - deflated the tire for a little more clearance.
Click to expand...
First push the caliper pistons in to gain clearance on the rotor...
Loosen pitch bolt on RH swing arm...
Loosen stopper bolt, retract till it contacts the silencer...
Retract axle till you can swivel carrier plate upward...
remove both spacers: the one from the wheel and the one sticking in the swing-arm...
retract axle further till it clears wheel bearings and drive spline...
Swivel carrier plate upward/caliper off rotor and "park" all inside the wheel (carrier plate flush on the rotor)...
With that clearance move wheel right/splines right/out the ring-gear...
(it might help to either wedge something under the wheel, or jack the front up so the rear tire gentle contacts the platform/floor...)
Once free, tilt wheel top to the left to get carrier plate/caliper out (there is a recess in the RH pannier giving clearance for that)
Roll the wheel out, put it aside and push the axle back in so you can "park" the carrier plate on it so the thing won't dangle on the brake lines...

Mind that I have "reversed" the rear axle position, its pushed in through the f/drive with the nut on the RH/silencer side now...
no need to remove or loosen the muffler anymore... not having to fumble with that saves me at least 45 minutes...
(if not one of the heat-shield bolts has corroded shut/snaps/rounds out/has to be drilled and re-tapped, etc...)

Useful for pushing caliper pistons back:

b1.96.95.10003009910FR10.jpg
It just spreads the pads apart, without and forces applied to the rotor, eliminating risk of damage...
 
ST1100Y said:
I'd recommend wearing good leather gloves & safety googles while attempting such a stunt... the splinters can reach quite a velocity while sacrificing a tool to the spirit of Honda...

Hence the nifty tool pictured above...
Click to expand...

PPE should be the call of any person working on their bike. We're all adults here, maybe?
 
NewTo700V said:
You guys not familiar with the old double-wrench trick? That's how I always got that bolt loose. Grab another wrench of similar size to the one you're attempting to turn a fastener with. Lock the open end jaws of the original wrench into the box end of the 2nd wrench you grabbed. This doubles your effective lever arm.

Just Google or YouTubes "double-wrench method" if this sounds confusing.
Click to expand...
The long wrench I bought came with a life-time guarantee. No need to "double-wrench"
 
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