Nt700v vs nc700x

Newrider2

Joined
Feb 22, 2026
Messages
22
Location
tampabay FL
Bike
nc700x
Thoughts? Actually, I own a manual 2012 nc700x though the other day happened upon a used 2010 nt700v for $1,600 with 25k miles on it. A guy got it on trade with a boat form a 25 year old kid. No bike history plus the new owner got new tires for it and rear pads…said the prior tires were down to threads. So, that alone makes me worry about the bike plus the narrow clutch engagement lever on handle bar and last the right lid is total broken in two. The left side in front of the bag has the black plastic broken as well. Last, either head light build works (unless it is just one that is both high and low beam…turn signals all work though lol and actually look sort of cool plus do like the red color of the bike. Might be sold already it has been a few days since I saw it.

Thinking Honda spared the expense of spending $ on those parts it seems.
Though even at $1,6000 with a used lid a forum member has that needs glue for the lock pin leaves me to wonder how it would be different from my nc700x. Let along what deep dark rabbit hole I might be traveling down buy the nt700v under these conditions.
Thoughts…beyond why would one buy a NT700v if they already have a nc700x?
Thanks in advance though try to be kind in reply…I seem to have blinders on when it comes to how many bikes is enough. But retired do have nothing but time under Father Time takes us for a finale ride.
 
I didn't see any luggage specific parts, but his company on eBay is parting out a silver NT700V... Full Throttle Salvage: https://www.ebay.com/str/r1yoshiinventory

I'll let others on here advise on whether it is a wise purchase in light of owning a NC700x. There are a few here who have had both.
 
How many miles on your NC? If it has been well taken care of and you are happy with it, I would keep it. A 15/16 year old bike with only 25K on it could have all sorts of history and issues. Unless in retirement you want to keep the NC and use the NT for a toy and can afford to loose your investment, I would stand pat. Most of us here have gone on to newer, better bikes. We are all glad we had our NTs and most of us wouldnt give a plug nickel for another. Kind of like children. I have found in retirement I have lost all my free time after 21 years. I dont need a project bike. I have moved on to a 2017 XT V-strom, a 2014 FJR which gets heavier by the year, and an exquisit Honda 2015 VFR, which is 10 times the bike the NT ever was. I would have never bought an Nt if it werent for the availability of big lids. It was a good mule in its time.....but I wouldnt go back.
 
Both a NT and NC have passed through my garage at some point. I wouldn't have shopped the NT when the NC was there. I especially wouldn't shop a clapped out NT when a NC is in the garage.

The NC frunk is way less touchy and delicate than NT side lids. Think of NT bodywork as being made of bakelite. This includes the interior carcass, not just the lids. The maintenance free nature of the NT's shaft drive looses all luster when you have to contend with constant battles elsewhere on the bike. I had a low speed put down during my ownership of the NT, and the plastics repair costs were in the hundreds. Like dropping a fabergé egg on the floor. I have no problem with sitting down every few hundred miles, giving a sealed chain a quick wipe with gear oil and checking slack. as for engine character.. the NT revs higher than the NC and is only a 5 speed. The NT at interstate speeds can be higher than NC redline. things can get a little buzzy and MPG can drop below 40 easily. That little V-twin is a jewel.. in a Hawk 650. In the NT you can think of it like a base V6 F-150 loaded with cinderblocks and towing a skid-steer.

Sounds like you have classic MBD (Multiple Bike Disorder) if you're looking at a crumbling NT. Most of us have MBD, myself included. Thing is.. Honda released so many models over the years. If you're just looking for something to mess with.. Valkyrie, Magna, Hawk GT, VFR750/800, CTX, Nighthawk (so many Nighthawks, CB1100 and goes on... Look at the current 500cc parallel twin and all the bikes that's been in over the last 10 years. You could fill your garage with nothing but different bikes sporting that engine.
 
Ok, Uncle...you had me at fabergé egg lol.
Yes, my gutless 'do everything good, nothing great' 2012 NC with maybe less than 8 to 12k (as if I ride it much) up at my brother's place a few hours from my home (one card garage) works. Indeed have MBD, thanks that saves a visit to the head doc :)
At times I see 'prices' and say 'such a deal'...which of course is the wrong way to buy things. Price is just one of the factors and indeed not at the top of the list. Too bad Honda made the NT with such cheap plastics I offer.


Though I like the features of a manual did enjoy the 'benefits' of Honda's DCT on a 2018 Honda glowing tour bike though that baby had some weight to her. Sold it for a used 2023 bmw r1250gs low.

Honda likewise now has a e-clutch feature on a few bikes (both the benefits of a manual and an automatic from what I have read).
Will say goodbye to the low priced used NT for sale and call it a day.

Course, there is a used 2025 NC750x DCT on the market...and could trade-in my 2012 towards it. Yes I know, call to make that doc appointment in the morning!!!
Thanks all :)
 
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eClutch is like the ultimate quick shifter/blipper. You still need to select gears with your foot, but using the clutch lever is optional. Takes stress out of learning friction zone release for new riders. For seasoned riders could be huge benefit if you have left hand issues or do a lot of riding in traffic where lane splitting isn't allowed.
 
I have both the 2010 NT700 and a 2015 NC700X. The NT, with the Pirelli tires, handles much better than the NC (after I restored it to stock height). The NT is 75lbs +/- heavier though. I have no problems with the acceleration of the NT, it's better than the NC.

If you could pick up the NT for not a lot of money, what about turning it into a "naked" bike, of sorts? Get rid of all the broken plastic. If you don't travel on the bike do you need all the luggage? I do have a trunk on each of the 3 bikes, and I use the trunks all the time; you could add a trunk to the NT
 
Both engines have very good reputations. I think the V-twin runs smoother than the in-line twin. I definitely like shaft drive over chain or belt.
 
JASJR said:
I have both the 2010 NT700 and a 2015 NC700X. The NT, with the Pirelli tires, handles much better than the NC (after I restored it to stock height). The NT is 75lbs +/- heavier though. I have no problems with the acceleration of the NT, it's better than the NC.

If you could pick up the NT for not a lot of money, what about turning it into a "naked" bike, of sorts? Get rid of all the broken plastic. If you don't travel on the bike do you need all the luggage? I do have a trunk on each of the 3 bikes, and I use the trunks all the time; you could add a trunk to the NT
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No.
Woodaddict said:
If you want to stick on the NT line, you know 2025/ 2026 NT1100 is available?
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Saying they come from the same line makes me think the milk man did more than drop off milk. :rofl1:
Honda didnt miss the fact that the NT700 was a miserable failure in the US market place. Like the Yamaha XV920RH. Both were big in Europe.
But the hand writing was on the wall with the new EU emissions standards.....so they have to build bikes around a few engines designed to meet them.
Many a good line on Hondas and other bikes were killed off.....
The VFR went from 1986 to 2015....and then throw on the trash heap of history along with my V strom and FJR. The FJR ran in Europe from 2001 to 2020. You can still find a few new 2024s in the US. The Vstom saw the light of day in 2004 and went through 3 generations. There is actually a 2025 Vstrom...no known if it is in Europe or replaced with the new 800 parallel twin.
 
Manfred said:
Both engines have very good reputations. I think the V-twin runs smoother than the in-line twin. I definitely like shaft drive over chain or belt.
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I was very impressed with Yoda's Honda 500 as far as smoothness. I wouldnt really call the NT a vibrator...it certainly was not as smooth as the Vstrom, VFR or FJR.
 
Smooth is relative. I've a flat6 Honda in the garage. The NT at highway speeds was a Dremel engraver in comparison
 
D
Manfred said:
Both engines have very good reputations. I think the V-twin runs smoother than the in-line twin. I definitely like shaft drive over chain or belt.
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Indeed, a NT with shaft drive is a good idea. Plus stripping away all the black plastic and bags maybe. Though do wonder cost to replace just the black plastic in front of the left side saddle bag (that used one I looked at was broken). Plus don't know why the headlights don't work nor if high/low beam is a single bulb or not.

Had to google to confirm what engine my NC uses lol (in-line twin I infer). The NC is at my brother's house about 1.75hrs north of me. Should be up that way soon so will put her out for a ride (hoping the battery tender is doing its job correctly).
My recall was that it is a friendly ride, within its limitations....short shifting as I recall. It is kited out with heated grips, spot lights up front with the Honda light bar, give trunk. Still has that crap stock seat that I have hated since buying it new back in the day.
Read mixed reviews on the 'comfort' seat Honda offers on the newer year NCs. Mine has a unique Madstad screen, using both the stock one (as I recall) else a smaller one Madstad created plus a Madstad one which is much taller. Believe I went to their shop and they did it there. Does a really great job cutting the wind and no wind hitting the helmet.

One time locked my bike key in the funk and had to ride it home from Daytona bike week praying that I had enough gas to get home to the West Coast. Actually made it back though was riding slow sleeps the whole way lol. Later did a google search to sort out how to open it as I recall. Somehow the dealer screwed something up that made it impossible for me to go to a dealer to get a key made (else maybe they have to order them).

Do like the available adjustable screen on the new 2025 NC, and DCT which gets rid of the chain drive. Plus the reviews on the 2025 NC say Honda did a better job with it when doing slow speed riding. Was always 'fun' doing rear brake trail braking on that 2018 Goldwing DCT when making show 180 turns lol.

Maybe best to wait until some used 2025 NC DCTs hit fbm or cycletrader one day. Hate to pay the like $600 dealer fee to prep a used bike that had less then 2k miles on it and not a fan of the White color only offered in 2025 on the NC. Always best to let the first buyer kit out a ride then buy it used if one can.

  • Engine Type: 745cc Liquid-cooled 4-stroke 8-valve SOHC Parallel-twin.
  • Performance Focus: The engine is designed for strong low-to-midrange torque rather than high-RPM power.
  • Orientation: The cylinders are canted forward (inclined) to lower the center of gravity.
  • Crankshaft: Uses a 270-degree crankshaft, which provides a distinct "throb" and improved traction.
  • Efficiency: Features low-friction technology, a single balancer shaft, and a cam that drives the water pump to reduce part count.
 
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Newrider2 said:
D

Indeed, a NT with shaft drive is a good idea. Plus stripping away all the black plastic and bags maybe. Though do wonder cost to replace just the black plastic in front of the left side saddle bag (that used one I looked at was broken). Plus don't know why the headlights don't work nor if high/low beam is a single bulb or not.

Had to google to confirm what engine my NC uses lol (in-line twin I infer). The NC is at my brother's house about 1.75hrs north of me. Should be up that way soon so will put her out for a ride (hoping the battery tender is doing its job correctly).
My recall was that it is a friendly ride, within its limitations....short shifting as I recall. It is kited out with heated grips, spot lights up front with the Honda light bar, give trunk. Still has that crap stock seat that I have hated since buying it new back in the day.
Read mixed reviews on the 'comfort' seat Honda offers on the newer year NCs. Mine has a unique Madstad screen, using both the stock one (as I recall) else a smaller one Madstad created plus a Madstad one which is much taller. Believe I went to their shop and they did it there. Does a really great job cutting the wind and no wind hitting the helmet.

One time locked my bike key in the funk and had to ride it home from Daytona bike week praying that I had enough gas to get home to the West Coast. Actually made it back though was riding slow sleeps the whole way lol. Later did a google search to sort out how to open it as I recall. Somehow the dealer screwed something up that made it impossible for me to go to a dealer to get a key made (else maybe they have to order them).

Do like the available adjustable screen on the new 2025 NC, and DCT which gets rid of the chain drive. Plus the reviews on the 2025 NC say Honda did a better job with it when doing slow speed riding. Was always 'fun' doing rear brake trail braking on that 2018 Goldwing DCT when making show 180 turns lol.

Maybe best to wait until some used 2025 NC DCTs hit fbm or cycletrader one day. Hate to pay the like $600 dealer fee to prep a used bike that had less then 2k miles on it and not a fan of the White color only offered in 2025 on the NC. Always best to let the first buyer kit out a ride then buy it used if one can.

  • Engine Type: 745cc Liquid-cooled 4-stroke 8-valve SOHC Parallel-twin.
  • Performance Focus: The engine is designed for strong low-to-midrange torque rather than high-RPM power.
  • Orientation: The cylinders are canted forward (inclined) to lower the center of gravity.
  • Crankshaft: Uses a 270-degree crankshaft, which provides a distinct "throb" and improved traction.
  • Efficiency: Features low-friction technology, a single balancer shaft, and a cam that drives the water pump to reduce part count.
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How did you start the bike to ride it home from Daytona with the key locked in the frunk? One key operates both ignition and frunk/gas fill lock.
 
I replaced 1 side black plastic 3 yrs ago was $265. Partzilla.com is where I get my parts. Decent prices. Look up the schematic to get whatever you want
 
dduelin said:
How did you start the bike to ride it home from Daytona with the key locked in the frunk? One key operates both ignition and frunk/gas fill lock.
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Was a trick statement...actually old age lol. Thinking back on it, as I now recall, I had a different key for the trunk vs the stock key to start the bike. Thus thinking I had my wallet in the funk with the funk key and maybe phone for all I can recall. Soft of forgot how that end up that way having a different key for the funk. Sh*t now I forget if the bike key also opened the back seat or one had to open the funk to pop a lever to open the back seat :(

Possible the dealer up in GA/NC screwed up and did not have the key code (as weird as that sounds) else after trying a large screw driver to break ithe funk lock t open and/or tweaking the lid just a tad...neither worked (nor do I recommend such). Had to have the dealer send me maybe a replacement key and lock thus guessing in the end they sorted out what the key code was. It was many years ago though that is the best I can recall now just don't recall why I had two different keys to begin with or shortly after getting the bike. 'Benefits' of buying out of State at times it seems.
 

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Newrider2 said:
Was a trick statement...actually old age lol. Thinking back on it, as I now recall, I had a different key for the trunk vs the stock key to start the bike. Thus thinking I had my wallet in the funk with the funk key and maybe phone for all I can recall. Soft of forgot how that end up that way having a different key for the funk. Sh*t now I forget if the bike key also opened the back seat or one had to open the funk to pop a lever to open the back seat :(

Possible the dealer up in GA/NC screwed up and did not have the key code (as weird as that sounds) else after trying a large screw driver to break ithe funk lock t open and/or tweaking the lid just a tad...neither worked (nor do I recommend such). Had to have the dealer send me maybe a replacement key and lock thus guessing in the end they sorted out what the key code was. It was many years ago though that is the best I can recall now just don't recall why I had two different keys to begin with or shortly after getting the bike. 'Benefits' of buying out of State at times it seems.
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Life hack. Take a business card. Take keys you have made for all of your bikes. Skelatonized with a dremel. tape keys to card and put in wallet. You will never loose another bike key. Many of my bikes have 3 keys. One for ignition, one for license plate helmet holder, one for disc lock. When I tour, I carry a full set in my luggage diguised as old brown underwhere.
 
Newrider2 said:
Was a trick statement...actually old age lol. Thinking back on it, as I now recall, I had a different key for the trunk vs the stock key to start the bike. Thus thinking I had my wallet in the funk with the funk key and maybe phone for all I can recall. Soft of forgot how that end up that way having a different key for the funk. Sh*t now I forget if the bike key also opened the back seat or one had to open the funk to pop a lever to open the back seat :(

Possible the dealer up in GA/NC screwed up and did not have the key code (as weird as that sounds) else after trying a large screw driver to break ithe funk lock t open and/or tweaking the lid just a tad...neither worked (nor do I recommend such). Had to have the dealer send me maybe a replacement key and lock thus guessing in the end they sorted out what the key code was. It was many years ago though that is the best I can recall now just don't recall why I had two different keys to begin with or shortly after getting the bike. 'Benefits' of buying out of State at times it seems.
Click to expand...
Dealers should never have the key code. It's stamped on a metal tag that is delivered to the buyer with the keys.
 
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