Fork Rebuilding

Just ordered the parts. It turns out that my wooden brakes were due in large part from fork seal oil lightly coating my right rotor. I'll be ordering a new set of Road 5s too. My PR4s are mostly done with ~11K miles, so I might as well spoon on a new set of shoes while I'm at it.
 
Unless you have a fleet of motorcycles, I don't recommend the universal seal driver. All three of my bikes, NT included have 41 mm fork tubes.

I did seals a few months ago and ordered a Motion Pro 41mm Ringer seal driver.
 
A seal driver is required to drive both the upper bushing sleeve and the seal into place. This is the second set of forks that I have done that required the seal driver with forks that had the upper bushing sleeves beneath the seal.
 
Brillot2000 said:
A seal driver is required to drive both the upper bushing sleeve and the seal into place. This is the second set of forks that I have done that required the seal driver with forks that had the upper bushing sleeves beneath the seal.
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Maybe you missed the last line in my previous post? I'm not suggesting the job can be done without a seal driver. I'm just stating my preference that I don't like the universal style drivers with the three adjustable "fingers".

I view it like reaching for an adjustable wrench when a set size spanner is available. The MotionPro Ringer drivers have a 360 degree driving edge that isn't going to move. They also feature a locking ring that keeps the two halves of the tool together. The one for the NT is the 41mm, Part # 08-0489 https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0489

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Brillot2000 said:
I have decided to use 15W fork oil versus 10W in hopes of improved handling.
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Which makes me wonder, as I find 10W a tad harsh on my GF's NT700...
(I use 7W in my ST1100 but with Hyperpro springs, might try 7W on the NT upon the next overhaul...)

IMG_20200215_161702.jpg
 
NewTo700V said:
Maybe you missed the last line in my previous post? I'm not suggesting the job can be done without a seal driver. I'm just stating my preference that I don't like the universal style drivers with the three adjustable "fingers".

I view it like reaching for an adjustable wrench when a set size spanner is available. The MotionPro Ringer drivers have a 360 degree driving edge that isn't going to move. They also feature a locking ring that keeps the two halves of the tool together. The one for the NT is the 41mm, Part # 08-0489 https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0489
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Yes, the right tool for right job. However, I usually end up helping out buddies rebuilding their forks for them. So, the universal seal tool was the best option for me. It hasn’t let me down yet.
 
Oh hey, a topical conversation I can contribute to! Just had my forks re-built by a dealership, the rubber caps were cracking at 29k miles and there was minor seepage. They've kicked up the viscosity to 15W, because I've read good things about it on here. The difference was immediately noticeable and greatly appreciated! Less dive, more planted braking and better ride at speed over rough terrain ( pothole-ridden rural PA roads, lol). My driveway is also on an incline, so jumping off a center stand is much better now.
 
A bit of warm weather this morning, so I thought I'd do the forks. Before I tore everything apart I wanted to try making one of those seal mates first. I cut one out of an old washer fluid bottle and stuck it in there and pulled out some grit. Reseated the seals and so far, so good. No more leaks. Still have the parts for the rebuild, if the seal mate ever fails me.
 
Likeafox said:
Oh hey, a topical conversation I can contribute to! Just had my forks re-built by a dealership, the rubber caps were cracking at 29k miles and there was minor seepage. They've kicked up the viscosity to 15W, because I've read good things about it on here. The difference was immediately noticeable and greatly appreciated! Less dive, more planted braking and better ride at speed over rough terrain ( pothole-ridden rural PA roads, lol). My driveway is also on an incline, so jumping off a center stand is much better now.
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How much did it cost?

NJ roads are not much better ...
 
Brillot2000 said:
There has been an improvement with the bikes feel after upgrading to the 15W fork oil. I experience less fork dive when stopping and the bike sets more sure then upright.

Brillott2000, thanks for that tip. I changed my fork oil a few days ago, and put in some Maxima green label 15wt. The improvement was nothing short of amazing. The front end vagueness is gone, there is more feedback, it handles bumps much better, especially in turns. I ordered another liter which I plan to put in my NC700. The green label Maxima has lubricol in it. An anti stiction additive.....it seems to improve things.
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Likeafox said:
I think about $175 for that particular service item. I've put about 4k miles on the bike since then, it's a worthy upgrade.
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Hi Fox, can you tell me yoru delaer name / address? The on in NJ quoted me $550 ... and how long they kept the bike? Can I be in and out in a day?
 
Sunny said:
Hi Fox, can you tell me yoru delaer name / address? The on in NJ quoted me $550 ... and how long they kept the bike? Can I be in and out in a day?
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goo.gl

Fun Center Powersports · 2639 Bristol Pike, Bensalem, PA 19020

âââââ · Yamaha motorcycle dealer
goo.gl goo.gl

All mechanic shops are backed up everywhere. Labor and parts shortages are a thing right now. You might have them order all parts ahead of time and just show up on scheduled day of installation, not sure. But Martin, the service manager is a great guy and will work something out.

They also have a $250 package that includes a tune up, all fluids and valve check. You definitely have to leave your bike for that one. But it's the cheapest deal on valves you'll ever find. I recommend you take advantage of that.

They are open year round, so may be bring the bike when it's too cold to ride, so you don't feel bad about leaving it there for a while.

Good luck
 
A long time ago, I work for an organisation that routinely replaces vehicles after 30 months. I am very cynical hearing the plaudits from colleagues saying that the replacements are wonderful. Of course they are. Almost anything will be better.

Similarly, most Deauvilles are more than 10 years old (in the UK) and will be poorly serviced. Just because a job is on the service schedule does not mean that it is done. Replacement oil of any grade in the correct quantity, will improve performance.
I service my 2010 forks earlier this year and have to scrape out congealed oil mixed with metal fragments. It is well worth the effort. The handling is greatly improved.
 
Whenever I change fork oil, I totally disassembly the forks including fork seal removal. That way I can get rags and solvent into the bottom of the fork leg where all that black grunge lives! I also use a "fork brush" that has long, soft bristles attached to a long stem. It looks similar to an oversize rifle bore brush. ;)
 
My temporary fix finally failed on my left fork and my Road 6 GT front has been sitting in the garage for a week, so I had no excuse but to dig into the forks. Pretty nasty oil in there. Replaced with 15W synthetic and all new serviceable parts. The Road 6 GT went on relatively easy and I didn't have to add any weight to the wheel. The 15W makes the front feel more planted, but is a bit harsh on big hits.
 
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