[How To] The FI fuse

[rc_heli_nut]

If you remove the FI fuse in the skinny fuse block above the battery, the NT will crank but not start, assuming the kill switch is in Run position. With this fuse out the PGM-FI module doesn't receive switched 12v, so the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coils won't be active.

I verified this works yesterday, on my own NT, it may be helpful to those looking to load test the battery.

 

[mikesim]

Good info, thanks!

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

If you remove the FI fuse in the skinny fuse block above the battery, the NT will crank but not start, assuming the kill switch is in Run position. With this fuse out the PGM-FI module doesn't receive switched 12v, so the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coils won't be active.

I verified this works yesterday, on my own NT, it may be helpful to those looking to load test the battery.

I have to test 4 jump packs and 3 motorcycle batteries. car batterys, lawn tractor batteries, etc and I really like this tester. It has an accurate analogue meter on it and you can use the starter on the NT as you suggested and read the scale, and read the charging voltage when you start it, or you can just push the button and put a 100 amp load on the battery. A brand new fully charged Vstrom battery reads 10.4 under load. And it stays there and doesnt drop. When batterys drop closer to 9 volts or below, I know they are getting old.....the internal resistance is going up.....you can also see the load voltage drop off on a bad battery.
Chris who spent a long afternoon riding and getting Frosty a new battery while he sat by the side of the interstate with a bad battery.

 

[rc_heli_nut]

I've had good luck with these resistive type testers too, used them a lot. While working on a customer's car, I would test the battery 2 ways, once with an electronic tester such as the Midtronics, followed by a test with one of these resistive testers. If it passed both testers generally the battery was OK to continue using, otherwise it was new battery time!

 

[Coyote Chris]

I've had good luck with these resistive type testers too, used them a lot. While working on a customer's car, I would test the battery 2 ways, once with an electronic tester such as the Midtronics, followed by a test with one of these resistive testers. If it passed both testers generally the battery was OK to continue using, otherwise it was new battery time!

I was issued one in the State Patrol for checking trooper car's batteries. Last century technology but it works. Sometimes a diode would go out in the alternator and I could catch that with my O-scope....but for 25 bucks, these things can tell you alot....sometimes, I would just put this across the battery terminals and turn on the headlights with the engine off and watch the voltage over 15 minutes.