[How To] Engine Coolant Maintenance Videos

Rmcapozzi

Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
190
Location
Leesburg, Virginia
Bike
2010 Silver NT700
I put together a 4 part video series showing how to change the engine coolant on the NT700V.

Hopefully the videos are good enough to help "demystify" the body panel removal/reinstallation.

Check them out!
Part 1: Intro and panel removal discussion
[video=youtube_share;0AAXXDlIHr0]

Part 2: Draining
[video=youtube_share;4SL9a_sd0kE]

Part 3: Filling
[video=youtube_share;Fo5Y6BKeSXk]

Part 4: Panel reassembly
[video=youtube_share;R8jU4IvyY5M]
 
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These are very helpful - please don't apologize for not making cinema or some KRP - Cincinatti Pro Video. Thanks for makin em..
 
Nice video's. Thanks for making them and sharing. I did not realize so much plastic had to be removed to change the coolant.
 
Many thanks for the fine video tutorial! One question I had while watching was, when you remove the lower headlamp housing surround, does that give easy access to replace the headlamp high beam bulb? I have replaced the low beam bulb several times with much fussing and cussing and I dread the day when the high beam burns out. I'm looking for an easier way, even if it requires a bit of disassembly.

Mike
 
mikesim said:
Many thanks for the fine video tutorial! One question I had while watching was, when you remove the lower headlamp housing surround, does that give easy access to replace the headlamp high beam bulb? I have replaced the low beam bulb several times with much fussing and cussing and I dread the day when the high beam burns out. I'm looking for an easier way, even if it requires a bit of disassembly.

Mike
Click to expand...
yep I just did that!!! I looked in there and said yikes that is a narrow area. I did get the high beam out of housing, but could not take off bulb from connector. so I took off the black cowl or shroud, unbolted the horn and the harness has enough room to drop down in view to use 2 hands to separate bulb from connector. my first time low beam went out, just did both of them with cool white blue bulbs.
 
Thanks for the info! I replaced my low beam bulb with a Sylvania ZXE bulb and it is significantly brighter than OE. The downside is that they only last about a year and are pricey. My high beam is still OE and I am debating whether to replace it with a ZXE or stay with an OE style bulb for longevity. If the high beam is easy to replace by removing the lower surround, then a ZXE it is!

Mike
 
Rob:

Many thanks again for posting the videos for coolant service on the NT. Today was the day for Traveller to get new coolant. You cheated however on your video! You already had the meter cover off and casually mentioned that it was a bit "tricky" to remove. Hah!! I guess if you had posted the video showing the struggle, cussing and holding your tongue "just right" it would have ran about a half hour longer ;^). Every thing went like clockwork until I got to the meter cover. I found that if you grab the base of the meter cover and work upwards from there it was a bit less of a struggle. The top tabs were the worst! Finally a bit of brute force got 'em broken loose (without damage). You were right when you said you have to pull til you think you're gonna break something and then pull harder. Another problem I ran into was the turn signal/parking lamp bulb. I didn't disconnect the connector but rather pulled the bulb socket out and set it off to the side, presumably out of harms way. Well, harm found the bulb and broke it. I looked at the bulb and it looked like a 1156NA so I went to my store and got some new bulbs figuring that I'd replace 'em both since I had the meter cover off and they were the original bulbs and would likely fail soon enough anyway. To my surprise, they didn't fit. Closer inspection revealed that the polarity/retention tits on the OE bulb do NOT have the pins oriented in a 180 degree manner like an 1156. I went to my friendly Honda dealer and as you might imagine, he didn't have 'em but agreed to order them. When I got back home I was frustrated 'cause I use the bike every day and wanted to get the job done. I checked the base diameter of both the OE bulb and the 1156NA and they were identical. Why Honda didn't use an 1156NA which are as common as crab grass is beyond me. I took one of my 1156NA's over to the bench grinder and carefully ground off one of the retention tits and the bulb now fit like a glove with no looseness whatsoever. I hate doing half-assed repairs like that but desperate times call for desperate action. As a bonus the OE bulb is rated for 21W while the 1156NA's are rated at 26W so the bulbs are now a bit brighter than OE. I ordered the correct bulbs and will install 'em if I have problems with my "engineered" solution. Hope this tidbit of info will help someone as the OE bulb is not commonly available at auto parts stores. While I was at my store I searched for the proper bulb and both Sylvania and Eiko do not offer that particular bulb.

Mike
 
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In my earlier post, I indicated that while at my store I could not find a cross-referenced bulb to the OE Philips 12496NA and so I "re-engineered" an 1156NA to replace the OE bulb. Last night on the Internet I found a cross-reference chart from the UK that indicates that the Philips 12496NA crosses to a Sylvania 7507 which is commonly available at US parts stores. Interestingly however, while riding Traveller last night, it "seemed" that the front parking lights and turn signals were brighter than before. This may be psychological since I know that the 1156NA's consume 26W while the OE bulbs consume 21W. Greater wattage does not always indicate greater brightness.

Mike
 
Haha. Yes that meter panel is "tricky". :rofl1:

Ouch on the bulbs. I didn't even think of removing the bulb from the housing. I just normally undo the connectors. Good tip for the future in case I decide to remove the bulb instead.
 
Nice video! Taking all that plastic off just to replace coolant. This reminds me of the times I mounted a Stebel Nautilus horn and Clearwater Lights. A real P.I.T.A. I wonder how much the dealer charges?
 
a coment for you all that are replacing head light bulbs with the higher output units. I had the upgrade done at dealers, I don't remember what was put in, but this spring as I was prepping for th summer seaon I lost a head lamp light. I took it into dealer to get a new one put in and when they pulled out the culprit the wire hanes going to th ligh was melted fom apparently the high intensity bulb.. We ordered a new section of wiring from Honda and it came in under warranty, shop forman didn't mention to them that they had put the high tec bulb in it so mo problem with Mother Honda on the warranty, but Shop forman recommended that we stay with stock light for future and I agreed. If mpppppppre light is really required I will dig out my pia 910's and upgrade to them.

eldon
 
Melting the headlight socket was a common result of upgrading to 120V/110V H4 bulbs with the Concours. We fixed that by replacing the Kawasaki socket with one from a Honda Civic.

I saw some LED headlight bulbs that had a fan mounted on the back of the bulb that were interesting, but I'm not sure that the fan would fit in the NT's cowling, particularly on the low-beam. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFK2RFO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&s=
 
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