Coolant leak from joint collar between cylinders.

Turbo DV8

Turbo DV8

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Mar 2, 2016
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Silicon Valley
I am preparing to sell my Deauville, but on my last long, hot trip occasional drips of coolant trickled down the flywheel cover. I want to make it right before I sell it, so I removed the left Fairing and Discover it is leaking from The Joint collar between the cylinders. The only way I can see to replace the O-rings is to remove the engine and remove one cylinder to get the joint collar out just to get to the two bit o-rings? Is this true? Or if I remove the two clips on the joint collar, can the collar be moved fore and aft enough to replace each o-ring?
 
Last edited:
Nah, quite easy fix, did it a few weeks ago on my GF's NT700VA...

New member from Vienna, AuSTria (Europe) | General

Hangar time... GF crossed the 95,000km/59,000miles odo digits... so this afternoon we'd some hangar time... Head bearings were due, and then some... obtained a nifty little tool, easing removal of the top outer race, insert, expand, a long rod, a few strikes with a hammer... another...
www.nt-owners.org

Once you've pulled the circlips you can push that tube back and forth to replace those O-rings.
The one on her bike were brittle and cracked upon touch...
I was able to reach around the forward cylinder to attach the new O-rings; other methods suggest use of dental floss or similar string.
I used silicone grease on them O-rings, job went like a breeze, no leaks anywhere...
 
remove the two clips and gently wiggle the pipe to one side. It will only give just enough room for the new o-ring to sneak by. Repeat the process in the opposite direction. To get the new o-rings on with the least amount of heartburn, find a helper to get on the other side of the bike while you both maneuver the o-ring into place each using dental floss to manage the o-ring.

I used tha technique with my wife's help and it went off without a hitch. I also bought a pair of channel locks with rubber on the jaws so i could geta good grip on the pipe without damaging it.
If you hunt around on you tube there is a video of a guy using the dental floss method on a different Honda v-twin
 
I am widowed and have no friends to help me because nobody likes me, so I tried searching for the dental floss method, using Search terms that seemed to make sense to me. I watched 45 minutes of Plumbing videos with rapt attention, but still not sure how to use the dental floss method to get an O-ring onto a water pipe. Could someone describe it in sufficient detail, or direct me to the video mentioned?
 
Turbo DV8 said:
I am widowed and have no friends to help me because nobody likes me, so I tried searching for the dental floss method, using Search terms that seemed to make sense to me. I watched 45 minutes of Plumbing videos with rapt attention, but still not sure how to use the dental floss method to get an O-ring onto a water pipe. Could someone describe it in sufficient detail, or direct me to the video mentioned?
Click to expand...
Take two separate lengths of floss and loop each one thru the oring so that you can hold the oring in the air using the floss on either side, The you have to fanagle the oring onto the pipe

Start watching at about the 9 min mark

 
Thank you for the links to the videos. On the second video, you stress the importance of running the coolant up to the point the thermostatic switch turns the fan on, and then turns the fan off as the coolant temperature lowers. You mentioned something about this being critical due to the ECU requiring that to recalibrate, or something. I have not heard that anywhere before. Isn't the fan controlled by a simple thermostatic switch? And if not, what is the criticality if it's going to do that anyway the first time the bike is ridden and warmed up the temperature?
 
Turbo DV8 said:
Thank you for the links to the videos. On the second video, you stress the importance of running the coolant up to the point the thermostatic switch turns the fan on, and then turns the fan off as the coolant temperature lowers. You mentioned something about this being critical due to the ECU requiring that to recalibrate, or something. I have not heard that anywhere before. Isn't the fan controlled by a simple thermostatic switch? And if not, what is the criticality if it's going to do that anyway the first time the bike is ridden and warmed up the temperature?
Click to expand...
On a lot of modern bikes they have a system to "automatically" recalibrate the parameters in the ECU. Most modern ECUs are using a full temperature cycle to do this (both my Honda and Yamaha use this system). It has been chosen as it gives the largest range of parameters (in theory) for the ECU to log. This is why you need to do a full cycle fan on to fan off.

If you don't do it, the bike might not run at it's optimum until a full temperature cycle is completed.

Not a "biggie". Just sit the bike on the drive a leave her running (use a chain or disc lock in case of miscreants) while you tidy up your tools etc. from the job. About 10-15 minutes to go from cold to full temperature cycle. I even do it after a full service.
 
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