[How To] Checklist for Doing Your Own Valve Check and Adjustment. Step by Step

T-Weeder Guy

Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
15
Location
Fergus Falls, MN
Bike
2010 Red NT700v
I just did a valve check and adjustment on my NT last week. I posted some observations about it because the bike sounds a little "ticky" ever since. I'm going to do it again as soon as my 10mm off-set box wrench arrives (for adjusting the front cylinder exhaust valves). In the meantime, I went through the service manual and several posts to compile a step-by-step list of the order to do things.

If I'm missing anything or have it stated incorrectly let me know and I'll revise it. Also, I couldn't find if there was a way to attach a PDF file to the forum, so I just cut & pasted my document. Hope this helps someone :)


Valve Check and Adjustment Checklist: Honda NT700V

** Mark wires, hoses and components removed or disconnected with a Silver Sharpie to make reinstall easier. A “match-up” line or mark on both sides of connecting parts helps w/reinstall.

Remove seat 3-6 (numbers with dashes correspond to section & page in Service Manual)
Remove fuel tank rubber 3-7
Remove mid cowl inside covers (lids) [Phillips #2] 3-11
Remove cowl pocket lids 3-12
Remove cowl pockets [Phillips #2, 5mm hex, 8mm socket] 3-12
Loosen tank pivot bolt [10mm] 4-5
Remove tank mounting bolts & collars [10mm] 4-5
Lift & secure tank- use strap or prop up to hold (Remove tank: optional 6-44)

Remove air cleaner cover [Phillips #2] 4-7
Remove air filter
Remove (2) air snorkels [Phillips #2] - plug holes
Disconnect hoses and wires from air box - snap hose out of C-clamp (L. Rear) 6-45
Remove air box base - plug holes - tape hose openings 6-45

Loosen or remove spark plugs [5/8” plug socket] (optional) 4-7

Loosen throttle body (TB) bands - front & rear cylinders [8mm deep w/ 1/4” ratchet] 6-48
Release wire harness on front side of throttle body (TB), white tape @ the spot, disconnect 2-wire clip on lower right side & tape clip to radiator hose to keep from falling out of sight
Disconnect wires and hoses so throttle body can be lifted, turned & set on left frame rail w/o disconnecting throttle cables
Secure TB & hoses/wires out of the way to side rail w/duct tape or bungee cord etc.

Remove front & rear plastic valve cover protectors 9-6

Remove hose from rear valve cover
Remove rear valve cover bolts [8mm] 9-7
Remove rear valve cover, gasket & dowel pin

Remove crankshaft & flywheel access ports on lower left side [10mm & 6mm Hex] 4-9
Set crankshaft to RT notch (follows F on flywheel) - as intake valves open, then close [17mm] 4-9
[Picture of flywheel with markings can be seen on page 12-10]
Check rockers for play to verify TDC
Check & adjust valves [10mm off-set box wrench] torque to 17 ft lbs - intake .006, exhaust .008 4-9 thru 4-11
Replace rear valve cover [8mm] and torque to 7 FT lb
Reconnect valve cover hose

Remove front throttle body insulator manifold - plug hole [10mm?]
Remove hose from front valve cover
Remove front valve cover bolts [8mm]
Remove front valve cover, gasket & dowel pin

Set crankshaft to FT notch (follows F on flywheel) - after intake valves open, then close
Check rockers for play to verify TDC
Check & adjust valves, [10mm off-set box wrench] torque to 17 ft lbs - intake .006, exhaust .008
Replace front valve cover [8mm] and torque to 7 FT lb
Reconnect cover hose
Replace crankshaft & flywheel access ports on lower left side [10mm & 6mm hex]

Re-tighten spark plugs if previously loosened or removed

Replace front TB insulator manifold [10mm?]

Replace front & rear plastic valve cover protectors

Install TB (lube around inside opening of insulators), connect wires & hoses
Tighten TB bands [8mm deep socket]

Replace air box base and reconnect hoses and wires
Replace both air snorkels [Phillips #2]
Replace air filter
Replace air box cover

Lower tank
Replace cowl pockets [Phillips, 5mm hex, 8mm socket]
Replace mid cowl inside covers (lids) [Phillips]
Replace tank mounting bolts & collars [10mm]
Retighten tank pivot bolt [10mm]
Replace cowl pocket lids
Replace fuel tank rubber
Replace seat

Congratulate yourself on just saving $300-$400!
Fire it up and go for a ride!
 
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Great checklist. The only thing I noticed was that you told us to replace the rear valve cover twice. The second time you meant (I think) to tell us to replace the front valve cover. :)
 
Phil Tarman said:
Great checklist. The only thing I noticed was that you told us to replace the rear valve cover twice. The second time you meant (I think) to tell us to replace the front valve cover. :)
Click to expand...

Phil- good catch!
I made the change, thank you.
When I did my 1st check I spent 1/2 my time in the service manual trying to figure out the next step. I thought this might help.
 
RedLdr1 said:
Good enough for a "sticky"....:D
Click to expand...

RedLdr1 - I'm somewhat new to the NT owners site. What is a "Sticky"

By the way...I just did a recheck due to the ticky sound. I purchased an off-set 10mm box wrench, a "Z-shaped" feeler gauge with .006 & .008 on the opposing ends, and used a breaker bar to turn the crankshaft instead of a 1/2" ratchet. The intake valves on the front cylinder were gapped too wide. I think I was on the "F" mark rather than the "FT" the first time I adjusted. The bike is MUCH quieter now. With the Z-guage I was able to check and readjust a few of the other valves that were just a little off.

As I went through the second time it was MUCH faster. About a 3-hour job as opposed to about 6-hours it took the first time. A chunk of the 3-hours was spent trying to get the front cylinder spark plug loose to eliminate the compression. No luck. Tried a universal joint on a long extension but just couldn't get the socket to line up square on the plug. I finally gave up. The breaker bar helped a lot in lining up the flywheel though.

I also noted the size and types of wrenches/sockets/hex etc. I used and I "Revised" my original checklist to include those details. I couldn't remember for sure what size bolt was on the front cylinder throttle body manifold I removed to make R&R of the front valve cover easier. Hope this helps someone.
 
This is great stuff...thanks! I just may do my next one after the rally. I am tired but did I miss the torque on the adjuster nuts?
If others have any additions, please feel free to post....one thing I have noted on machines in general is that sometimes, exactly how an electrical connector comes apart is not obvious. Any of those here?
One reason I like to do these kind of things myself is I am very slow and meticulous and when I am done, I know I have done the job right. I am not saying shops make that many mistakes, but sometimes folks get in a hurry
or haven't done a job like this before....and they make money the faster they go....I don't. Changed the oil today....man, getting the torque wrench on the filter wrench was a bit of a task but I figured it out....
T-Weeder Guy said:
RedLdr1 - I'm somewhat new to the NT owners site. What is a "Sticky"

By the way...I just did a recheck due to the ticky sound. I purchased an off-set 10mm box wrench, a "Z-shaped" feeler gauge with .006 & .008 on the opposing ends, and used a breaker bar to turn the crankshaft instead of a 1/2" ratchet. The intake valves on the front cylinder were gapped too wide. I think I was on the "F" mark rather than the "FT" the first time I adjusted. The bike is MUCH quieter now. With the Z-guage I was able to check and readjust a few of the other valves that were just a little off.

As I went through the second time it was MUCH faster. About a 3-hour job as opposed to about 6-hours it took the first time. A chunk of the 3-hours was spent trying to get the front cylinder spark plug loose to eliminate the compression. No luck. Tried a universal joint on a long extension but just couldn't get the socket to line up square on the plug. I finally gave up. The breaker bar helped a lot in lining up the flywheel though.

I also noted the size and types of wrenches/sockets/hex etc. I used and I "Revised" my original checklist to include those details. I couldn't remember for sure what size bolt was on the front cylinder throttle body manifold I removed to make R&R of the front valve cover easier. Hope this helps someone.
Click to expand...
 
Coyote Chris said:
This is great stuff...thanks! I just may do my next one after the rally. I am tired but did I miss the torque on the adjuster nuts?
If others have any additions, please feel free to post....one thing I have noted on machines in general is that sometimes, exactly how an electrical connector comes apart is not obvious. Any of those here?
One reason I like to do these kind of things myself is I am very slow and meticulous and when I am done, I know I have done the job right. I am not saying shops make that many mistakes, but sometimes folks get in a hurry
or haven't done a job like this before....and they make money the faster they go....I don't. Changed the oil today....man, getting the torque wrench on the filter wrench was a bit of a task but I figured it out....
Click to expand...

The adjuster nut torque is 17 ft lbs. I just made that addition to the post. Thanks!
I had to look at the electrical connectors to figure out how they came apart. As I recall, you either pinch the sides of some, but I think there was one I had to push down on a small tab that was on top as I pulled them apart.

I know what you mean Chris. I like to do what I can myself too. When I bought my last bike, an ST1100, the previous owner had had all the service done at the dealer. I found several mounting screws missing and Tupperware tabs broken. It was obvious they weren't as careful as I like to be.
 
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Thanks! I have added that....
I think many of us have horror stories about dealer work....the tranny fluid missing after service of my 2-stroke....me trying to prove to the dealer that the charging system of my new bike wasn't working....etc.
And how do you go back and tell the dealer that his or her guys broke those plastic tabs?
You have motivated me. It is time for this weedhopper to cross the line and do his own valves and become one with the machine....


T-Weeder Guy said:
The adjuster nut torque is 17 ft lbs. I just made that addition to the post. Thanks!
I had to look at the electrical connectors to figure out how then came apart. As I recall, you either pinch the sides of some, but I think there was one I had to push down on a small tab that was on top as I pulled them apart.

I know what you mean Chris. I like to do what I can myself too. When I bought my last bike, an ST1100, the previous owner had had all the service done at the dealer. I found several mounting screws missing and Tupperware tabs broken. It was obvious they weren't as careful as I like to be.
Click to expand...
 
After the Epic Ride, I'm going to take advantage of my proximity to a master mechanic and let Chuck Henderson teach me to adjust valves. I always did them on the Connies and miss the bonding time.
 
T-Weeder Guy said:
RedLdr1 - I'm somewhat new to the NT owners site. What is a "Sticky"
Click to expand...

"Sticky" is a slang term used when a forums staff permanent "sticks" a useful post at the top of a forum or sub forum. Since the post will always be on top of all the posts in a forum after being "stuck" that helps members find it easier without digging around searching for it... Katherine's "How To" and your checklist threads are "stickies" in the Valve Check / Adjustment subforum...
 
I did my valve check today. I have 20,000 miles and hadn't been in the tupperware since 9,000. All valves good, no adjustments. The plastic removal was slow.
I agree on doing it yourself and spending whatever time it takes to do it right. I also replaced the alternator cover today. On the breakin service the dealer jamed the crankshaft port so tight that it rounded off at the 9,000 mile check. I now can remove the port and turn the crank like it was designed.

Brad
 
Honda lists the valve check as 4 hours. My dealer charges $80 an hour. What does your dealer charge?
 
I think my dealer calls it 4.5 hrs, not entirely sure. Be aware, this time starts AFTER the engine is cold. The last (and only) time I stipped the fairings it took me 9 hours to remove and replace everything. Of course me and tools are a comedy act.
 
Removing the plastic and checking valves gets easier after you have been there but it is not a task to hurry through. The clamps on throttle bodies are a pain and the front valves are down in there without much space. It is difficult to make sure the front valve cover gasket/seal is in place all around so spend extra time there to prevent oil leaks and going back in.
A shop manual is a good addition.

Brad
 
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