Bummer ... pannier add-on latch broke. What to do to reinforce and reaffix?

[basketcase]

Soooo ... the photos pretty much 'splain the dilemma.

Both panniers have clasp type latches added. Clamp and lockset on the outboard side (i.e., on the bag lid), and the small clip/hook on the inboard side (black plastic).

The right side piece where the hook is mounted broke out, leaving a rather obvious hole. From what I can see, the area underneath and behind the hole is narrow, but it still looks assessable for installing a backing plate for reinforcement.

So my question is, what does the brain trust suggest as a backplate for doing the fix?

Back when I first got the bike I read up on this as part of filling my general reservoir of NT7 knowledge. I think thin metal is not feasible at this point. The rivets are already installed, so I'll have to work around the nubs to affect a repair.

I'm thinking some type of modeling plastic or PVC, but I wanted to query the brain trust before gluing in something that would immediately prove to be a mistake.

Thanks in advance,

Rick (scratching his head and wondering if he already asked about this?)

 

[mikesim]

It appears to me that the pop rivets possibly caused the stress to the already weakened plastic that caused the failure. I think it would be OK to use the pop rivets again but you must make sure that you carefully select the "grip range" of the rivet so that you don't overstress the substrates that they are clamping. If you have done this, then I would use small machine screws with a fender washer and a nylock hex nut. You can then torque the hex nut "just enough" to secure the assembly without overstressing the plastic. As far as the backing, I would recommend a thin aluminum plate expoxied to the underside of the pannier housing. The aluminum plate should be flexible enough to allow you to shape it to the curvature of the pannier housing. You may need to carefully remove some of the inner housing to give you access to the underside of the outer housing. Once you are satisfied that the repair was successful, you can epoxy a patch panel to the inner housing. This repair could be performed in situ but I suspect would be much easier with the housing off the bike. Hope this helps! I hope others chime in with some alternative (read better) repair methods.

Mike

 

[junglejim]

I pretty much agree Mike.

But my version (from seeing only pictures) might be to first epoxy some backer material and then reinstall the broken out piece together with the latch with blind rivets as Mike suggests. You’d have to grind or file the existing rivets out first. I’d do some experimenting with various plastic to see what bonds to the Honda plastic that broke. Clean surfaces with acetone or similar first. You could heat and form Kydex to the inside if you can get it to bond.

Good luck

 

[cliffh]

I did a similar repair about 3 years ago. I used a piece of thick paint stir stick (the kind for a 5 gallon can) roughly carved to the largest size and shape I could fit into the hole. I used a wood screw in the center face to install and remove the wood until I got the best fit I could get. Then a generous coating of JB Weld and again used the screw for a handle and a rubber band attached to the screw and a light post until set.
I then reattached the latch using machine screws into holes drilled into the wood/JB Weld making sure to not overtighten them.
Has been working perfect so far.

Cliff

 

[Coyote Chris]

I had an unfortunate incident with my Connie C10 where I had to repair the fairing. At the time, you could get a repair compound type of plasitic expoxy for Japanese motorcycle fairings that would flex to about the same point the plastic would. I used a thin aluminum backing plate behind the crack. There is a putty for plastic canoe repair also. JB weld is great stuff but isnt really shock resistant IMHO and doesnt flex without breaking. There IS a JB weld for plastic. There are also some interesting products out there.

 

[JimBow]

I & several others I knew would used JB weld on our plastics on our Goldwings. This worked even on the lugs that broke off when slipped into rubber holes on the side plastics on the Wings!

 

[Brillot2000]

Adding a flat aluminum plate on the inner side, as shown in the image, could help distribute the stresses from the pop rivet.

 

[ARKNT]

Like others have said a thin metal backer epoxied/JB Welded behind the original piece will help a lot to preserve it and spread out the load.
Good luck.

Arknt

 

[basketcase]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I'm shopping the stuff necessary to do the chore.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I'm shopping the stuff necessary to do the chore.

J-B Weld PlasticWeld and Plastic Bonder are specialized two-part epoxy systems designed for strong, lasting repairs on plastics, composites, fiberglass, and PVC

I am intrigued by the new JB weld plastic weld and plastic bonder.
Also,

 

[ST1100Y]

I'd first secure the broken part back into place with a 'plastic welder'

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186490532498

sand the backside flat, after that re-enforce the area with a rigid strip of plastic glued on with some 5 minute 2K epoxy for distributing the load...