Lowered the NT

Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,890
Age
81
Location
Greeley, CO
Bike
2010 Silver NT700VA (ABS)
I got my bike back from Sun Honda this afternoon after having them install a lowering link, slide the forks up into the triple clamp an inch, and re-adjust the shift lever and rear brake pedal. I also had them remove my Motorcycle Larry peg lowers, figuring I didn't want to give up any more cornering clearance than I had to. (They also did an oil and filter change, and changed the final drive lube.)

As I was getting ready to leave, Billy, the service manager, told me to take it really easy because the bike was going to be much more twitchy after being lowered. I couldn't think of why that would be the case, since the front and rear had been lowered the same amount and it seemed to me that the bike's geometry wouldn't have been changed, but I also guessed that Billy might know more than I do, so I assured him that I would take it very easy until I adjusted to the changes I had made (or they had made, to be exact). As far as I could tell on my 62-mile ride home, the handling is unchanged.

These are things that have changed: Getting on and off is easier. Holding the bike when stopped is easier. Dangling my legs while riding is not easier. Riding without the peg lowerers is a little harder.

But, I think I may get away without having to shorten the sidestand. I'll figure that out on my eclipse ride to Whitney, NE.
 
Last edited:
Hope the changes to Dudley make mounting and dismounting easier for you. The rest of the stuff you'll get used to.

Mike
 
I did shorten my sidestand the amount prescribed in the HyperPro instructions and it was still too tall. What bothered me most was that while sitting on the bike, I had to tip it to the right to provide enough ground clearance to get the sidestand up. And at least for me, tipping the bike that far while not moving is an uncomfortable feeling! And when I had to stop on an uneven surface or on the dirt shoulder it can be even worse. I went back a 2nd time and shortened it even more so now I'm a happy camper.

As an aside, I use the left footpeg as a "step" when getting on the bike so the sidestand has to be down for me to mount the bike. This greatly helps getting my right leg over the saddle...as we get older, we must make adjustments. :)

Anyhow Phil...enjoy the new confidence when you come to a stop!
 
Last edited:
When I had mine lowered the most important thing I learned was that I couldn't have my instep on the pegs when I went into the twisties because my toes became the first thing to scrape the ground. Now I ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs.
 
Since nobody's mentioned it, I'm guessing none of you who lowered your bikes have had any contact between the front fender and the fairing.
 
I used a HyperPro fitting. My instructions said to raise the front shocks in the triple by 12mm. That is about 1/2 ".
I can not remember any handling differences. No problem with front fender and I have a light bracket that is an inch lower than the lower headlight cowl.
Never lowered my foot pegs, but I unexpectedly made ground contact twice with my left boot. Had my toes under the shifter both times and relatively low speed.
Shortened my side stand but not the center stand. It takes much effort to put it on the center stand. Putting on the center stand when fully loaded is a stand on, pull, lift affair. I would recommend something under the rear tire.

attachment.php


Sidestand.jpg
 
One winter I shorted my centerstand which was an involved and tedious job. The existing gussets at the junctions have to be removed by grinding and saved for reuse once the legs are shortened.
 
[..Does anyone have any experience with the Lucas Lowering link?..]


I've done three and none of the HyperPro shock eyes were that expensive. The last two, several years ago, were around $100.
 
Dirtflier:

I just got a quote of $120 for the Hyperpro from EPM Performance..shipping will bump that up another $10. Does the needle bearing come out of the stock mount easily? If not, it is another $20 for the bearing and another $10 for seals....so I will be around $170 with all the parts and shipping (if I can't reuse the bearing/seals). That would put the cost of the HyperPro and Lucas within $10 of each other is the bearing/seal can't be pushed out and used.
 
I carefully pried the seals out and made sure I didn't damage them. The caged needle bearing is a light press fit so comes out fairly easily and I used my 6" bench vise and various sockets as my press fixture. It comes out and goes in easily. $120 + shipping in late-2017 seems reasonable.

ps. many riders who had the shock off the bike also changed to an Ohlins rear spring for a more compliant ride. I'm sure you can find lots of entries on the NT website if you punch in "Ohlins rear spring." If you weigh more than 200 lbs the standard spring might be OK but anything south of that I'd opt for the Ohlins spring.
 
Last edited:
Thanks......If I can press out the bearing I will get the Hyperpro. I just removed similar bearings from a Ninja swingarm before I powder coated it.......the bearings were reaaaaallllly tight and could not be taken out without being damaged.

I ride this bike double with my wife pretty often - and the stock springs works well for both of us and baggage....I will likely just keep the stock spring.
 
[I just removed similar bearings from a Ninja swingarm...the bearings were reaaaaallllly tight and could not be taken out without being damaged.]

The 3 or 4 that I've done were simple. Once the socket made contact with the bearing race, it started to move. Swingarm bearings are much larger in size and I can see them getting stuck in place. :-(
 
I just purchased the short shock eye, LK-H007-002-35, from EPM performance for $104, which included delivery. I'm 5'6" so I'm on my toes at the stop signs, even with my Corbin Saddle, which is about 3/4" lower. I hope to get this installed over the next month. It says it will lower the bike 35mm / 1.38 inches.
 

Attachments

  • Shock Eye.jpg
    Shock Eye.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 15
Going to an Ohlins spring will help compliance a lot because the standard spring is dual-rate but the soft portion is too brief so you'll always be riding on the hard portion which is mainly ideal for 2-up. If you look through the files, you can find the Ohlins spring number. I used the Ohlins spring for two of the NTs I lowered for friends.

Be sure to have the sidestand shortened because it will be useless if it remains the standard length with a lowered bike. Just ask Phil!
 
I'm very glad I lowered NT#1 and that Horse (NT #2 was lowered) when I bought it. But DirtFlier is absolutely right about shortening the side stand. I wish I had found an easy way to shorten the center stand, too. After I lowered the sidestand on #1, I made a trip to WV for the eastern NT Rally and for the Stayin'Safe course with Eric Trow. I managed to drop it 3 times in that two weeks. :-( After I left WV, I made it all the way home without dropping it again, and then shortened the side stand some more. That's made it a lot better. Horse (#2) has been OK with the lowering job Frostie did on it before I bought it.
 
Russ, I wish I could answer that. A friend of mine did the shortening on NT#1, and what he did the first time he shortened it wasn't enough. I think we probably ended up cutting around 2-2 1/2 inches.
 
When I did mine and the one on Deb's NT, I cut the vertical portion just below the loop that you use to kick with your foot, then added a 3" round steel disc, 3/16" thickness, in place of the dainty ballet slipper provided by Honda. It has never sunk into a soft surface! :)

round kickstand pad.JPG

I actually did mine twice because using the original recommendation from HyperPro as regards how much to remove, the bike was still way too upright for me and was especially bad if I parked on the irregular dirt shoulder of a road. I went back and cut it again so the steel disc now touches the bottom of the steel loop that is used to kick it down. Now, it felt a lot more secure. :)
 
Last edited:
The Hyper-Pro shock eye package says it will lower our bike about 1.38". For those that have done this change, how much was the bike actually lowered? I was thinking that due to the angle of the shock it will be something less than the 1.38". Just guessing maybe 1". I'm hoping for 3/4" - 1".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom