Cannot shift up from 2nd to 3rd gear.

[Clive]

Hi,
After 5 months storage outside under a waterproof bike cover, my NT700 will not change up from 2nd. Before storage, with regular riding, it wasn't always easy to change up even then.
Today when running on the centre stand with the rear wheel clear of the ground, it apparently changes up through the gears when I forcibly pull up on the gearchange lever. However, there is an unpleasant knocking/grinding noise as it runs and the wheel turns. I'm not sure if this is from the engine area or the final shaft drive at the wheel.

 

[mikesim]

The first thing to check is the clutch adjustment. It sounds like the clutch discs aren't releasing easily. The freeplay at the end of the clutch lever should be about 1/4". I have seen one time where an owner used an oil additive that was incompatible with the clutch disc friction material and over the course of storage the friction on the clutch plates had swollen to the extent that they would not release. I doubt that this is your problem though.

Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[ST1100Y]

After 5 months storage outside under a waterproof bike cover, my NT700 will not change up from 2nd.

I'd clean and grease the rose-joints and pivot of the shifter linkage...

However, there is an unpleasant knocking/grinding noise as it runs and the wheel turns.

with no load the (straight cut) side gear (output shaft) is hunting...

 

[cliffh]

Here is an easy check. Check the amount of clutch cable that is moved at the clutch lever when pulled. Then look to see if about the same amount of cable moves at the clutch/transmission end. I've had cables rust internally during storage. The lever still pulls SOME cable, but the cable sheath can contract enough to prevent full movement at the clutch end.

The clue to me was that it got worse while in storage.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Here is an easy check. Check the amount of clutch cable that is moved at the clutch lever when pulled. Then look to see if about the same amount of cable moves at the clutch/transmission end. I've had cables rust internally during storage. The lever still pulls SOME cable, but the cable sheath can contract enough to prevent full movement at the clutch end.

The clue to me was that it got worse while in storage.

Yeah...big clue....I too would check the clutch cable for operation. But there is a part of me that is afraid.

 

[Clive]

Thanks a million folks. Your info about the clutch cable has given me a much-needed boost. Of course it is likely to gunge up when sitting outside! Strange how easy it is to forget the basics when distracted by the confusion of a house move. I was sorry to leave my D outside for so long. Thinking back now to occasional difficulties changing up when riding it regularly, it's probable that the clutch cable was trying to tell me something for years! These wonderful machines speak, but I didn't listen.

 

[cliffh]

FWIW....I have tried to oil and loosen rusted cables, but I find the damage is done at that point. Easier to just replace the cable. Hope it is the cable. That is a fairly easy fix. I purchased a cable from Ebay....didn't fit. The Honda shop got me one quickly.

 

[Clive]

I'm adjusting the clutch cable, which is serviceable and free in its casing.
But the adjuster at theclutch end of the cable is a sod to get to. I can get around the exhaust pipe, but the fairing seems designed to prevent access; especially replacing the clutch cable nipple in its holder. Well, I've had the fairing off before, so here we go again - tomorrow.

I miss my bike hydraulic riser platform which I had to sell two house moves ago. I had an Eazy Rizer, but found the'fork lift' arms a bit tricky to position without impinging on the bikes' underside. (Deauville and Classic Triumph.) And the garage floor was sloped. So that went too.
Are there any new-fangled bike servicing/lifting ideas on the market since I used to look? I swore I wouldn't do any more fettling in my dotage, but here I am!