Mike, I haven't looked at the inside of the pannier yet, but I'm wondering if we could taper some wood and slide it into the slot and then drill through it and both parts of the plastic and either use long rivets or bolts and nuts to attach that piece that the latch grabs.
That's a thought, but I hate to drill into the interior of the pannier itself. The engineer in me wants something a bit more elegant. I'm thinking that if I can find some flanged nylock nuts they can be held in place with a hemostat and the screw can be inserted thru the hasp and into the pannier housing. In lieu of the flanged nylock nuts, one could take a dab of superglue and use it to hold a washer in place on the nut while it is being held with the hemostat. Lemme work on this awhile.... there has got to be a better way than removing the pannier housings.
I'm thinking that your idea would be more elegant than the wood insert I thought about. But, to get into that space, you'd still have to remove the pannier housing, wouldn't you?
Mike, you're reminding me of myself when I work harder at trying to avoid some work rather than just doing it right the first time. It is a lot easier to remove the panniers than get to the valve covers and adjust the valves.
From the voice of experience.
If you take the seat off you can see inside the pannier housing. The linkage rods from the latch to the catches are housed there. It will be tight, but you may be able to get in there with a hemostat and wrenches.
Mike
To assuage my guilt about my inherent laziness, I like to consider my approach to be "more efficient" thus saving more time for riding. See how that works? Try it sometime.....
:wink:
Mike
Jason
0
Great thread, guys! Extremely informative.
I've had a piece of the inside of the pannier break apart. I'm going to install some exterior latches, as well. I think I may have a good idea. The aluminum plate used to bolster and protect the plastic pannier, under the lock and in the pannier could be made easier with using a piece of rubber - just how a rubber grommet works. This could also be useful in absorbing some of the vibration, thereby lessening the stress on the plastic surrounding the latch.
Thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK23...&pd_rd_r=7c8f9929-6f12-11e8-8e2a-5b147b3667a3
I've had a piece of the inside of the pannier break apart. I'm going to install some exterior latches, as well. I think I may have a good idea. The aluminum plate used to bolster and protect the plastic pannier, under the lock and in the pannier could be made easier with using a piece of rubber - just how a rubber grommet works. This could also be useful in absorbing some of the vibration, thereby lessening the stress on the plastic surrounding the latch.
Thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK23...&pd_rd_r=7c8f9929-6f12-11e8-8e2a-5b147b3667a3
OP
OP
Comanche
0
Excellent idea!
Are you suggesting using the rubber in addition to the aluminum backing plate or in lieu of the backing plate?
Mike
Canuck down under
Guest
There is no doubt the absolute worst thing about the NT700 are the pannier latches... apparently Honda used the same ones for the bigger ST1300 with the same results. I have replaced one whole pannier body ($AU400 new) and both lids ($AU200 each used) because of the shoddy design and manufacture. Recently the left side latch gave out YET AGAIN so this time I decided to forget the latch and install a quality, stainless steel hasp latch externally. Worked well, so decided to put one on the right side preventatively. Drilled one hole for the 5mm mounting bolts, started the other one and the whole section of pannier body collapsed into several pieces. After much cursing I managed to fish the bits out from inside the body and glue it all back together. Looks like crap but I am not gong to fix it ... just wont use that side any more!!Just like almost everybody else, I've had problems with the pannier latches. Here is the solution I came up with - and thus far, I am very happy.
Full disclosure - I'm about as mechanically minded as can be - - NOT! I really am a klutz. While the idea was mine, the work was done by Big Phil (on this board). Phil doesn't ride an NT, but he does almost all the wrench work on my bike, including my previous one. If someone has a question I can't answer, I'll either have to call him or possibly, I'll have him get on this thread.
I quickly got tired of trying to get the OEM latch system to work. For awhile, I just disconnected the seat latch so I could raise the seat easily and push the rod. That got old quickly. I also wanted something that did not require the ignition key - that is a pain, and I wish Honda had not done that. Nonetheless, I wanted to be able to lock it.
The latches were installed last May. I haven't posted earlier because I wanted to be sure everything worked as hoped. After riding to Spearfish and a few other longish rides, I like them. The only time I had a problem was at Spearfish when a bunch of us rode to Devil's Tower. I've forgotten who was behind me, but he came up alongside to tell me my left pannier was open. In retrospect, I think it was operator error on my part and not a failure of the lock.
I found this on the Franzen International site: http://franzeninternational.thomasnet.com/item/standard-case-locks/drawbolts/item-1020 Their web site is not very good - they don't even include prices. Price was $15 each, plus $4.50 shipping. The shipment was prompt.
Here it is installed:
My personal opinion is that it looks quite nice.
Another view:
And still another view:
A view of the lock partially open. By the way - the locks seem very robust.
Another view partially open
A view of the catch mounted on the body. I wasn't there when Phil did the work, but I know he went in as deep as he could go so that he mounted the rivets in the most secure place possible.
Another view. Note that there does not appear to be any stress where the catch is mounted, and this despite the fact I had a lot of weight in the pannier on the Spearfish ride.
Phil knew the biggest danger would be on the lids themselves, since that is the thinnest plastic. This is a piece of aluminum he used, and note the size - just to spread the stress out some.
Another view:
I included this shot to show that the OEM latching mechanism has been totally removed. Another advantage of this system is that there will be no cracks that usually appear where the screws hold the latching OEM mechanism. Since they are not used, there is no cracking. No need for plastic welding and all that other "stuff."
I have watched the hinges on the bottom of the lids for any cracks or other signs of stress, and I haven't seen any yet.
I've been very happy with the results - Phil did a great job, and I feel I now have a functional and good-looking pannier locking system now.
Aside from that have had excellent service over six years and 100,000 kms (that's about 90,000 miles for folks still working in old money).